There is no reason for us to quicken Up the pace of the day we are living For there is nothing that can be taken When the moment is all about giving. We’ve found ourselves in the heart of old town With windy paths waiting to be explored. If the choice is bad, we can go back down To find one our memories will adore. There are rest’rants with food to be eaten, And mementoes chirping from the store fronts. Though the many streets have been well beaten, It feels like we’re the only one who hunts. This day and this city belongs to us, And where it takes us, I will put my trust.
I moved to Lima three months ago, and I have been able to enjoy it quite a bit, but it was time for me to get away from the gloomy skies of the city and see what the mountains just outside of town had to offer. It was Spring Break, so I packed my bags and headed to the second biggest city in Peru, Arequipa. It was not only quite the change in landscape, but also a change in attitude as well. Both places are big tourist destinations, but for different reasons, and it was fun being a tourist in the Andes Mountains rather than living a day to day existence off the coast of the Pacific Ocean. It made me excited for all I was going to see as I learned to live and explore this part of the world.
First of all, Peru is the story of the clash of two long-standing cultures, the Spanish colonialists that sailed over the sea in search of new lands and riches, and the Inca culture at the height of its power as it spread its influence over much of the western part of South America, specifically in the mountainous regions of the Andes. Despite the fact that these conflicts happened centuries ago, the influences of both cultures are present all over this part of Peru.
The ruins of the old civilizations can be found in the mountains still well preserved though nobody has lived in them for a long time. It takes a bit of a hike to get to them, but once there they are worth the visit. You can see the old roads that used to take people from one place to another combined by the stone construction of their homes, walls, and aqueducts. Some of the sights even predate the Inca culture, such as this abandoned town near Yanque which was once the Oyu Oyu village before conquistadors from Toledo came and removed the people to move them over to the now present town of Yanque.
If the small towns and ruins of the Andes are not enough, there are always the bigs city lights of Arequipa that is just over the ridge of the Andes Mountains. Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru, and has about 1 million citizens living there. Though it is a ways off the Pacific coast, it was one of the first place that the Spanish settled when they first arrive, and there influence is all over the older part of the city. You can see it in the plaza in the middle of the city to the large cathedral that looms over that square. The cobblestone streets do allow traffic to drive through them, but at the same time it feels completely walkable as you look at various alpaca shops, restaurants, and souvenir places selling cheese ice-cream. It is not just the language of Peru that was influenced by the Spanish, but there whole towns as well.
Still, it is a blending of both the original culture and the Spanish colonialism that gives Peru its charm. The dresses and dances might remind you of flamenco dancing in Seville, but upon closer inspection the dresses have intricate designs that take from the fauna and boldness of the mountain setting that inspired them. The dance comes with a determination and confidence that could only be found among a group of people who conquered these vast wilderness, and do not necessarily have the grace associated with the dances from Spain. It is its own unique thing, and it is wonderful to watch wherever it might spring up.
The blending of cultures to make a new and unique thing is the basis of much of Peruvian culture, especially their food. I am surprised about the amount of people that know so little about Peruvian food, and in many places in the world, it is almost impossible to find at all. Despite its absence on the world stage, it is one of the best cuisines I have ever experienced. From ceviche to lomo saltado, all of the dish are a culinary delight, and if you are in the mood to try something from one of your favorites, they will put their own spin on it to create something even better than the original. I went to a Thai-Peruvian fusion restaurant in Arequipa called Kao that was a traditional Peru dish, tacu-tacu, with Thai flavors that blended so well together I will never forget the dish.
Peru is the land of numerous surprises and I have only started to explore it. I have been in the big city on the coast and a small section of its mountains. I still have to explore its jungles and river area, and I am sure there are other surprises I am not even aware of yet. Still, I got to roam the majestic mountains of Peru and have been higher above sea level than I have ever been in my life. I have enjoyed the hot springs brought on by the rising steam of active volcanoes. I have gotten to see the graceful flight of the condor, the second largest bird in the world.
I have enjoyed my small exploration of this country so far, and I cannot wait to see what else it, and the rest of this region of the world has to offer. I hope you join me in my journey, and hopefully, I can inspire you enough to make it down here yourself. You will be fascinated with what it has to offer.
Until next time, keep exploring the world and see how we all come together to create something new.
When you live in a valley in the mountains of the Andes, there are going to be times when you come across some volcanic activity. When you come across volcanic activity, there are going to be springs that are naturally warmed by the volcanic activity. When you have these hot springs, hotels are going to pop up that will take advantage of this fact to make hot water pools that allow you to soak in them while enjoying the natural surroundings of the environment. This was the place that I ended up at during my recent travels through Peru, and it was not only an immaculate setting, but a great experience as well.
The Colca Lodge sits a twenty-minute drive outside the small town of Yanque in the Colca Canyon region, and its main attraction are the natural hot springs that are found there. But there is so much more to this lodge than just the nice warm pools that are in the area where you can relax after a long day of exploring the high Andes mountains. There is a spa, a nice big pit for late-night campfires, and of course, what every high Andes complex needs, an alpaca farm.
Don’t worry, they have llamas too. Basically, you are given free reign to walk around the grounds and check out these animals as they run, play, and graze. It is also connected to a small museum that talks about the history of these animals in the region as well as the other major draw out to Colca Canyon, the condor. It is a nice way to spend an hour or two, and the animals are completely friendly, even though I never got close enough to one to pet it.
There is really only one place to eat at the Colca Lodge, but they do have enough variety that you will never get bored with the food. The kitchen staff is also well-versed in bringing together many dishes, mainly from Peru, but you can also find some great dishes from Italy, Mexico, and bar fare. They also have a full bar with a great selection of wine, and beer from the region.
Each room has an outdoor entrance that has a small patio that is perfect for sitting out on most of the time. There was a moment when things got a little too hot in the morning, but then the shade took over and it was nice to sit out there and enjoy the scenery. It was the perfect place to sit back to read a book or play a card game, and made the lodge a very comfortable place to stay at.
There are many exciting things to do and see in the area as well. There are some hikes close by that can take you to waterfalls, up ancient terraces where people still farm today, and even the Oyu Oyu ruins. If that is not your cup of tea, a longer drive will take you out to Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world and the sight where many condors can be spotted hunting for carrion. It makes this spot the perfect location for a break from the day to day monotony. I enjoyed a three night stay there and am already thinking about when I could go back and enjoy it again.
Until next time, try to find those special places in your part of the world that allow for relaxation and little bit of culture at the same time.
In my move to Peru, I did not expect to see the same kind of things I have seen while traveling around the world. I knew that there would be many new and exciting things that I would get to experience while roaming around the sixth continent I have been to, and it was during this Spring Break that I really got to go out and see them. Of course, the first thing I had to put on the list was an alpaca, either that or a llama. I wouldn’t really be in Peru if I had never come across one of these.
And of course, I came along a lot of them. This is nothing unusual for me because there were many a farm in both Oregon and Colorado where I got to see them running around, but the amount of them is greatly increased in Peru. There are many different kinds of them as well from domesticated ones to ones out in the wild roaming free.
No matter which ones I came across, they were pretty tame, and the domesticated ones will even allow you to come up to them and pet them. There is always the chance that you will anger one of them and they will spit at you, but then again, you can say that about any other domesticated animal.
The biggest difference is the landscape that comes with animals. It is high dessert, and once again, both Oregon and Colorado boast that they are also the same kind of environment. However, there is a lot more sand in the high desert locations of Peru, and it is feels a little more desolate. This might be because the Andes are much higher than anything that can be found in North America. I went on a long road trip from Arequipa to Colca Canyon, and the highest point I reached was well over 16,000 feet and there were still mountains and volcanoes around us that reached even higher. I had to keep an active eye on some of the volcanoes because there were times when smoke would billow out of the top of them because they are still active though none are threatening to explode anytime soon.
All of this comes in a land steeped in history and tradition. In the mountains, I could imagine the people traveling across the vast plains to get from one location to another while carrying all of their good on llamas or alpacas. They would arrive in places in time for the market, and to join in the celebrations that take place annually. These celebrations still take place today. I stumbled upon one of these in my travels as I could to see a whole parade of people preparing to show off the local traditional dance, and it wasn’t just the older generation that did this. There were dancers from the age of five all the way up to the mid-fifties, and each one of them impressed me with their ability to dance.
This is not to say that new traditions are not being formed as well. Peru has built a craft beer scene that could rival any other country. It is seen wherever you travel to as there are a variety of beers and ciders to experience. They are also very proud of the beers that they have crafted as they should because they are great. It is a great way to enjoy an evening after one has wandered around to see all the crazy things that this country has to offer.
It just means that each night I get to crawl into bed to dream about what new and exciting things I will get to see tomorrow. It has been fun moving to this part of the world, and I cannot wait to see what else it has to offer. I have only scratched the surface so far, so I hope you join me over the next couple of years as I explore it further.
Thanks for reading, and until next time, get out there and see what your part of the world has to offer.
Sitting on a whole city block in the middle of the old part of the city of Arequipa sits the winding streets and bright walls of one of the oldest European claims in South America, the Santa Catalina Monastery. This is a must-see sight if ever visiting Arequipa, and when you do, plan to take a couple hours to explore all that it has to offer. I would also recommend that you make it one of the first things you do in the morning to avoid the heat of the day and the large crowds that eventually make their way to this place. It is nice to be one of the first people of the day to walk through the location because it will make you feel as if you have the place to yourself.
The monastery is a nunnery that is still in use today even though it no longer boasts the number of nuns that it held during colonial times, and it is a rare sight to see the nuns who live in the corner of this historic sight. At its height, there were about 500 people living on the grounds. Some of the women that lived here were given their own rooms if they came from a wealthy enough family to pay for this luxury; whereas, many of the other women found themselves to be a part of the big dormitory that sits in the middle of the monastery. Even with all of these people in this place, it would still feel rather large and it has easily enough space to accommodate all of them.
Not every woman that ended up in the monastery ended up becoming a nun. Many of them arrived when they were as young as twelve years old, and they were brought here to learn from the nuns, and prepare for a life outside of the monastery. They would live beside the nuns, and learn from them. As I was walking around the grounds, I found hints of this lifestyle in many of the corners, and the place itself reminded me of a large campus where I could imagine students, and nuns alike moving from place to place as they completed what needed to be done.
One of the most interesting spots on the grounds is the place where they did laundry. It was based upon an irrigation design that was brought over from Africa. Water would constantly flow down this little groove in a wall, and when someone wanted to divert it into the basin that they were using, they would place a rock in the path of the flow to have it go through the pipe that would lead to their basin. These basins were made out of old wine pots that were used to ferment the beverage. They could no longer be used for wine, but they made the perfect sink for washing clothes.
There are also magnificent gardens on the grounds that they could tend to so there could be some beauty added to the place. This is even more impressive due to the fact that the monastery sits in the middle of a high desert where a patch of green is hard to come by. Still, the nuns were able to create this zen paradise in the middle of this kind of environment.
If that was not the place where they wanted to spend their time, there was also the fountain which could be found in the middle of everything. I was told that it was the place where they would go to get their water, but I did not think that the green water that was found in the fountain while I was there would be worth drinking. Despite that, if you look closely enough into the water, you can find small koi fish swimming around in it. They are not as large as some of the koi ponds I have come across in my travels in Asia, but it was a nice addition to this little spot on the grounds.
Santa Catalina Monastery is a great place to visit, nestled in the heart of the old part of the city. It is easy to spend a morning there after breakfast, and you will have explored it thoroughly enough just in time for a great lunch in the neighborhood. It is worth walking through with a tour guide and they are only ten soles, or two and a-half dollars per person for an hour guided tour. They do have both English, and Spanish guided tours, and I think that I even heard French while I was being guided around. They have the ability to point out the nuances that would be missed if you went by yourself.
Otherwise, until next time, keep getting out there and see what the world has to offer.
It has been a strange year. I have not done as much traveling as I have in the past, and when I had time off from my work, I would spend that time coming home to be their with my family during some rough times. I have had the opportunity to take short weekend trips but it has almost been a year since I have gone on a vacation that lasted for a week, but life has a way of shifting perspective, and I have been given the opportunity to go explore a different part of the world, Latin America, as I have made the move to Lima, Peru. As my first trip in this part of the world, I took a quick flight into the Andes to the second biggest city of Peru, Arequipa.
Arequipa is a colonial city that has been around since the sixteenth century. The old part of the city has some of the oldest buildings in the Americas, and it has the feeling of walking around the heart of a Spanish city. There are many impressive sights to go and see, but for my first day in the city, I decided it would be best to just wander around the older part of the city and see what it had to offer. It was fun looking at the facade of these buildings, and peeking my head into the various places where I could eventually learn more about what this city had to offer.
Of course, Arequipa being in Peru, one of the things that it boasts is the food that this country is known for. There are so many fusion restaurants to choose from and it is hard to pick just one. I found a udon place called Yama Wok for lunch that was the perfect start to what will be a bounty of great eating. It was a tiny place with only five seats available but the noodles were made fresh and they cooked the meal right in front of you. It wasn’t only a fun experience, but it was also delicious.
It gave me the energy I needed to explore more of the old city. No matter where I went, I kept roaming back to the center of the city where a beautiful plaza is. The garden in the center of this square is an inviting place where you can find a shady spot underneath a tree to enjoy some cheese ice-cream, play a card game, or just relax with a good book. It is where most of the people come to meet up with each other, and I have also witnessed moments where it explodes with life as parades walk through or people who have gotten married or received the first communion get the perfect picture to capture the moment.
And of course there are many a roof top bar where you can look out over the city and watch the sunset. They serve the great drinks that you come to expect from Peru such as good wine, or pisco sours, but they also have a surprising beer culture that they can boast about. We went to our favorite brew-pub, Sierra Andina which has great IPAs, stouts, and a really good porter.
Even though the day was not filled by learning about the culture from this part of the world, it was still a fun day of traveling again. It was the perfect way to ease into a great traveling experience, and I cannot wait to see what the rest of this week has to offer for me.
Until next time, enjoy getting out there and experiencing the world.
What is this strange new world I landed in Filled with happy people beneath the trees? It is nothing like the place I have been, A paradise with a salty air breeze. I will walk down the street to take it in, Finding new smells, on the way, as I go. The rush of traffic has a controlled din, And they’re happy even when they go slow. I have plenty of space on this sidewalk Where I don’t have to worry about cars, Giving me extra time to sniff and stalk, Society free from restricting bars. I cannot believe this utopia, A dog’s favorite cornucopia.
The crowds continually flow out the gate Into the city which they landed in. I look at each new face to indicate The memory of the one who has been In my mind since the last time I saw her. It takes a trip to the local airport To initiate the loneliness cure That my heart has recently had to court. But the passengers keep passing me by Not showing the face of the one I love, So I scab the crowd until I descry That she has returned from her flight above. I am always amazed by this strange feat When we find that moment when our eyes meet.
There is not a lot to do in a car Traveling down America’s highways. Though the distance to go is very far, We wish we could skip these tedious days Of watching endless fields of golden grain Go by outside the passenger window. There’s never going to be a refrain To the tick of the monotonous show. I turn the dial looking for music That can turn this boring day exciting, But the stations I can find are tragic Because it is only Christians talking. I think I am about to lose my grip As I continue on this long road trip.
Meet Zoey. I have talked about her before. She is my puppers. We rescued her while living in Jordan, and though she drives me crazy from time to time, I love her to death, and would do anything for her. When I found a new job across the world in Peru, I was definitely going to take her with me, but the logistics of taking a dog from one part of the world to another is a crazy endeavor of paperwork, muscle and stress. In the end though, it is worth the effort to know that she will be with me on this new adventure in a new country.
Let’s get one thing straight, Zoey has a pretty easy life even though she might tell you differently. She was picked up on the side of the road in the dessert on the way to the Dead Sea from Amman. Afterwards, she was given a home where she had all the toys she could want, never had to hunt for her food, or look for a fluffy place to rest her head when she was tired. Despite all this, she has still only know a dessert world where there are few trees, hot sun beating down, and a city landscape. Going across the world has been an eye-opening experience for her. For the first time in her life, she has seen big bodies of water, squirrels, horses, and deer, and trees so numerous that they cover a whole area that the humans call forests.
All of these new experiences have been a little stressful for her. She does not always know what to make of them, and as soon as she starts to feel comfortable in a place, we uproot and get her on the move again. You see, we couldn’t make a direct flight from Jordan to Peru. We had about a month lay-over in the United States, and to get her into this country was a little bit of a challenge. The United States currently has ban on dogs coming from Jordan because of a couple of cases of rabies a few years back. Basically it takes about six months to collect all the paperwork necessary to fly a dog into the United States from Jordan, and then you have to schedule an appointment with the CDC to get another health check before they officially allow the dog into the country.
Airlines are also fun to work with. They each have their own requirements and weight allowance. It requires just as much wrangling to get a dog into the cargo hold and even then, it is not always a given they will get to go. They will have to be there during a certain time of the year because they will not allow the dog to fly if it is too hot or too cold outside. In each case, it might cause the dog severe discomfort while sitting on the tarmac because they will not be able to turn on the climate control until they are up in the air. Luckily this was never a problem for us as we found the perfect time to get her into the plane, and the plane into the air.
We tried to limit the amount of time that Zoey had to spend in the air, and we definitely wanted to limit the amount of layovers that she might have to endure. The best way to do this was to fly in and out of L.A. even though she would be staying in Oregon the whole time she was in the United States. In order to make this happen, we had to take the long drive between the two states twice. It wasn’t ideal, but it was easier for Zoey to understand what was going on rather than having her trapped in a dark tiny crate for many long hours without us being able to explain why she was in it.
It also gave us the added bonus of being able to see a little more of the United States on a road trip. It has been a long time since I have been on an American road trip, and I enjoy the feel of the open road. This is not necessarily the same for a dog who has to find themselves cramped in the back seat with a collection of all of our stuff that we are bringing with us to Lima on our move there. Still, I was amazed at well Zoey did on the trip. She chilled out in the back seat and got up to watch the scenery as it passed by. It helped that we did the drive through California which offers a lot to look at.
But after a couple of nights in hotels that we fancier than what we usually stayed in because we wanted to make sure that there was enough space for Zoey, it was tine to pack everything up and head to the airport. That final jump over to our new life was exciting for us, but trying to explain to Zoey how much she would love the new experience was still difficult for us to do. I always wondered what was going through her mind at this moment. Did she think that she was heading back to Jordan to her home, or was she still confused as to what actually was going on?
Whatever she was thinking, the reality is she eventually got on that flight, and made it all the way to her new life in Peru. It was stressful for her and us, and there was quite an adventure along the way, but we are safe and sound now. She has taken the last week exploring her new surroundings and getting comfortable as so have we. I can’t wait to see where it leads all of us, and I am sure that Zoey agrees.
Thanks for reading, and I look forward to keeping you updated with our new adventure.
John Collings 