I guess you are here because you have discovered one of my books and enjoyed it enough to find out more about the author, me. Either that or you’re a potential employer who is investigating me to see if I would be a good fit for your organization. In which case, surprise, I write books as well as teach. Some might look at that as a bad thing, and if so, please explain to me how.
For whoever finds my site, I want to welcome you, and also allow you the opportunity to follow me on a regular basis. Anybody is welcome as long as you keep your posts appropriate, and respect the other followers to this site. As long as everybody follows those two simple rules, I won’t have to kick anybody off. Let the friendly banter begin.
I am hoping to create an interactive site that everybody can enjoy. Of course, I will keep you up to date on the latest writings coming out of my head, and I will also let you know when and where I will be in the world, so someday you might be able to meet me in person. Most people regret that decision, but who knows, maybe you’ll be in the minority.
I will also tell you about my world-wide travels as this is something I do on a regular basis. I’ll show you pictures from places I have been (this one is from Dubrovnik, better known to fans of The Song of Ice and Fire as King’s Landing), and tell you the exciting stories that happen to me along the way. You are also welcome to ask me any questions you may have about the place I have been, and I will try to answer them in a timely manner.
I know it all sounds amazing, and I can see you wondering why you haven’t been a part of this fantastic experience so far, but let me tell you about the most exciting part of following this site – the interactive part. You were probably wondering when I would get to that part I had promised you earlier. Well, I plan to create a list every month, and I want you to participate in its formation. I do love countdowns, but I am always disappointed in them. So I have decided to take matters into my own hands. You will be able to post your top ten of each monthly list and at the end of each month, I will comprise the total list to give you the countdown for that subject. Look for each new subject on the first day of each month, and the final list of the previous month by the fifteenth.
Otherwise, it is very nice to have you a part of this experience, and I look forward to all of our future posts together.
It has been another great year of gaming. I have played over 80 different games this year, and many of them new to me. I have also been able to play many campaign to their finish, and have gathered with many friends over the year while creating new ones through this hobby. This list has come out a little later than I would have hoped for because of travel, and the time it takes to put this list together. Once again, the list is comprised of my choices when put into Pub Meeple, the on-line service that helps me rank the games I have played. I have also placed next to them how their position has changed based on last year’s list, and it is always fun for me to visit this list every year as I hope it is fun for you to look at it as well.
20. Oath (Down 13)
This is not an easy game to get to the table, and it requires finding a group of people that would like to play it on a regular basis. Even when I do get it to the table, we have to review the rules again, and play with how fiddly they are, but I love the fact that this board creates it own history, and is an amazing way to tell stories. The last game I played told the greatest story out of any that this board has presented to me which makes me want to get it to the table more often. It sits here because I have moved away from my regular group, and I have not found that new group to play it with yet.
19. Dungeons and Dragons (Down 5)
This is the game that occupies the most of my time, and I really do enjoy the moments that I get together with my fellow players, and continue to experience our campaign. I did finish up one campaign this year, and started a new one, both with different parties. I also took up the mantle of being a Dungeon Master for the first time, and it does switch how I look at the game. It forces me to know more about the game than I ever have before, but I think I am doing a good job of adjusting, and there have been a couple of moments that have really stuck out in our campaign so far.
18. Scythe (Up 2)
This is another game that does not get to the table easily, but every time it does, I enjoy the experience whether I win or lose. The blending of area control with worker placement and Euro gameplay tells the perfect story of an alternative universe where mechs rule over the landscape of a post-World War I eastern Europe. There is not another universe of a completely original IP that captures the imagination of the players as well as this one, and I love the stories that
17. Sagrada (New)
I have been playing this game for years on my tablet. It has always been a fun little puzzle to ponder while traveling the world, but I had never played a physical copy of the game before. This year I came across a used copy of the game in outstanding condition in a 2nd and Charles store with the expansion included. Since then I have gotten this game to the table on numerous occasions and it is just as much fun using the physical copy as it does with the digital one, and the table presence is amazing as the colors of the dice really pop out. I can easily see this becoming a staple in my game play over the years.
16. Sylvion (New)
Recently I have gotten into solo gaming, and though it does not dominate my collection. Even though I have picked up a couple of news ones over the last couple of years, this was the first one that I have owned. It sat on my shelf for a couple of years, and I had forgotten about it, but I brought it out this year to play again. I had forgotten about how much I love this game. It is a great card game with big choices, and a story that unfolds as you play. I have not played all of the games in the Oniverse, but this is my favorite one, and can easily see it never leaving my collection.
15. Raiders of the North Sea (Down 2)
I first downloaded a version of this game to play while taking a trip to Iceland, and it has been a regular go to since. It is the first game that put Garphill Games on the map, and since its publication, they have created many other games that other consider the favorites. I have never had the opportunity to play any of these games, and I always want to explore them every year. Maybe this next year will be the one that gets me to try another one of their games, but until then Raiders of the North Sea is a great game to play.
14. Root (Down 11)
This is another game that I have never been able to physically play, and I have only played online versions of it. Just like the other Cole Wehrle game on this list, I could only imagine that it would be extremely difficult to get to the table because of its asymmetric game play makes it a difficult teach. Still, I have met many people who have spent the time to learn this game, and they all have it as one of their favorites. This is the year that I hope to get to play a physical version of this game and know the joy that comes from moving these cute woodland creatures around the game board. Until then, it still holds a prominent spot on my games of the year list.
13. Azul (New)
On an impulse buy, I picked up a travel version of Azul this year. I have played it a couple of times before, and have always enjoyed it, but it never was one of my favorite games. Since I have bought the travel version of the game, and have gotten to learn more about the strategy behind the game, I started to understand the genius of this abstract masterpiece. The travel version is a great way to enjoy this game, and it has always found a place in my suitcase ever since I have bought it. I have no idea how I have lived so long without it.
12. Everdell (Down 4)
This is always a comfort game for me. It is the game that got me back into the board-gaming, and when I have gotten a couple of expansions that allow me to make this game as simple or complex as I want it to be. I still believe that it has some of the best artwork in any of the games I have ever seen, and the cosy way that you build a small village for critters makes it a perfect addition to any collection that will have most people wanting to join in to play. I do not ever see this leaving this list by the sentimental factor that it holds with it.
11. Challengers: Beach Cup (New)
I usually do not like party games because they are usually silly and they do not have much strategy behind them. There is also a lot of sitting around, waiting for your turn, and after a while, they start to bore me. That is why I was so surprised when I was given the opportunity to play this game. It is a deck building game where you rotate around the room and play all of the people in a one on one game. It was surprisingly fun, easy to learn, and had enough strategy behind to make it feel like you were playing a real game. It has made me re-evaluate party games, and got me into the deck building games more than I have played in the past.
10. Long Shot
Speaking of party games with a little bit of a bite, Long Shot: The Dice Game easily ranks as the highest for me. Once again, this is not your typical party game. In fact, I think this one operates better in a pub than an actual party. It is not as fast as Challengers, but people really get involved in the horse that plays out in front of them. It is a goofy game with the perfect artwork to accompany the silliness, and it actually plays better at a high player count than other roll and write games. It also is small enough that it works well as a travel game, perfect to bring with you on those long trips.
9. Pandemic: Legacy Season 1 (Up 6)
Pandemic has always topped my list as one of the best cooperative games ever created. I have spent a lot of time playing it on my tablet, and I actually prefer to play it by myself because I have a habit of quarterbacking the game and ruining it for other people. Along comes a chance to play the legacy edition and it helped to alleviate this problem because each new month presents a new challenge with it. I loved this way of playing the game, and I might hunt down the other seasons to see how they breathe new life into a game already love.
8. The Crew: Deep Sea Six (Up 1)
After finishing the Search for Planet Nine the year before, I did not think that I would play the Crew again. Then I ran into new friends that had a copy of Mission Deep Sea. I had played this a couple of times and always considered it the better version of the game, but with them, I was able to push through a lot of the missions though we did not complete the whole campaign. I still consider it the best cooperative game out there, making it impossible to have anybody quarterback the game, and everybody has to play their part. It is also the most inventive use of the trick taking mechanic I have ever seen. This is a great game, and I can see it popping up again on the list next year.
7. Imperial Assault (Down 3)
I have played the opening missions for this game on numerous occasions, looking for a group of people that would want to play through the whole campaign. This last year, I found that group of people and was able to play through the whole campaign. It was a blast, and as they powered up, I was able to throw more dangerous things at them. It ended up being a great lite version of role playing, and dungeon crawling all set in the Star Wars universe. It made me want to try out some of the other campaigns that are out there, but I do not know if I will get the opportunity because I now have to find another group that might want to play the game. It took me years the first time around, and I expect that this could happen again.
6. Bunny Kingdom (New)
This was another game that was introduced to me by going to a game night. I did not know what to expect with this, but when I started to play, it became apparent that this cute game about carving out a bunny kingdom on a grid was more complicated and strategic than the artwork implied. I really fell in love with the game quickly, and we played it a couple of times that night. I won both the times I played, and that is not why it makes it so high on this list this year. I loved the fact that I took different paths to victory both times which showed me the depth that this game possessed, and I am sure it could get higher if I am given the chance to play it more often in the upcoming year.
5. Arkham Horror: The Card Game (Up 6)
This has been the game I go to when I want to play a good game, and there is nobody around to share the experience with me. I love the fact that it is complicated, has many different scenarios with their own intricacies making each one feel unique, and it tells a great story in the process as well. I have not dumped a lot of money into this game yet because the two campaigns I own have been perfect enough to keep me happy. I have played them each a couple of times, and I have not gotten bored of them yet. I have also found others who want to play the game as well, so it might change its place on my shelf as a solo game to a collaborative campaign style game that might change my view of it in the coming years, but as for now, it is easily one of my favorite games to play on a dark night when I have nothing better to do.
4. Heat: Pedal to the Metal (New)
I was never much one for racing games, but ever since this one made it to the store, I had an interest in playing. It was more about the deck-building then it was about the race, but when I finally played it, I found that the race is what really brought this game to life. The deck building is a brilliant way to get you to feel what it is like to be an F1 racer. It causes you to put together a nice balance between collecting the cards, speeding ahead, and trying not to lose control of your car. It also comes with different racetracks that if played together creates a mini-campaign. This game was an unexpected surprise this year, and I can’t wait to play it some more adding in the more complex additions that the game comes with.
3. Isle of Skye (Down 1)
This is still one of my favorite games. I love the feeling of piecing together my little corner of this Scottish island while connecting things to make it as pretty as it can possibly be. I know that this is not the strategy you should employ to play this game, and every time I start a new game, I think to myself that I won’t do this, but in the end, I always have to make it look pretty. The combination of the bidding and the variety of the challenges makes this game quick-paced and different every time I play it. It will take a lot to remove this game from this position on my list. My only complaint is that you need at least three people to play, and I think it works better at higher player counts, so I don’t get it to the table as much as I would like to.
2. Final Girl (New)
I went out searching for a new solo board game, and decided on Final Girl and decided on the Happy Trails Horror feature as my first box. I didn’t know how much it would get me hooked, but the simplest of games in this series had me playing it at least once a week. I have since expanded to the Panic at Station 2891 feature, and even just having two has given me enough material to keep me busy for a long while. I love the fact that you can change the final girl that you are playing with, or place a monster in a different location, giving the places their own feel. It is completely immersive and I feel as if I am in the horror movie that I am playing. I know I am hooked and will keep adding features as I play this game more and more.
Chinatown
I know that this game is out of print, and has been reskinned recently, but I still love the original Chinatown. It is a simple game that can be taught in five minutes, but it is the simplicity of the game play that opens the game up to a complex fun interaction with the other people at the table. It is a pure negotiation game, and the interaction is what brings me back to this game again and again. I have introduced it to so many people, and every time we play, we laugh so hard about the negotiations that take place. I do not care if I win or lose, I just want to negotiate. This is why this game has taken the number one spot again this year.
It was not exactly what I was thinking of when I think of Summer Break. Most of the time I get visions of hot weather, lying on the beach, and roaming around the world. Of course, most of the time when I think of Summer Break, this happens during the months of June, July, and August, not January and February. Then again, I had never lived in the southern hemisphere, and never really thought of this time of the year as the summertime, so when I got to my first Summer Break, I thought of the one place where I could visit that would let me experience the travel fun of Summer Break, but give me a little chill that I have become accustomed to this time of the year, and the place that was closest to me where I could achieve this goal was Patagonia, the very southern tip of South America where summer does happen, but more like I would see if I had visited Alaska, or some place in Scandinavia.
When I thought of going to a place where the sun set for only a couple of hours a night, and the weather of summer does not reach as well as some other place closer to the equator, I had visions of my time spent in Iceland. It was amazing, but it is also a hard place to stay in. We had encountered a lot of rain there, and the wind can be brutal. I was pleasantly surprised to not see the same thing in Patagonia though we did have some rain, and one day of brutal wind. It was so bad that things would just blow off of us and disappear over the mountain ridge. Also when renting our car, they showed us how to open up the doors to prevent the wind catching them and blowing them off the car.
Despite the possibility of harsh conditions, life is still able to find a way. I know I should not have been surprised by all of the wildlife that I would find out there, it still shocked me. The animals varied from guanaco, a large relative to the llama, to the fox, to the condor, and even puma which we were not fortunate to see. Still, almost every day out there we encountered an animal that was living its best life despite the fact that they also had to contend with the wind, and rain, and probably even harsher conditions when it is no longer summer.
Even though we had some amazing days, it still did not feel like summer. A lot of that probably had to do with the fact that we had to always carry layers of clothes with us wherever we went. At any time the weather could go from sunny and warm to windy and cold, and if I did not have a rain coat with me at all times, there was the possibility of getting drenched in a torrential downpour. It just meant that we had to do a little extra planning every day before we left our place to go and adventure out into the exciting things we could find at the tip of the Americas.
And the surprises came from many places other than the natural beauty that we came out there to see. I will be honest that I did not have grand expectations for the food. It is not like Chile and Argentina are either known for their cuisine, and coming from Peru meant that there would probably be a step down in the quality of food. This was not always the case. I was able to have parrilla which is a grilled food where you see whole animals slowly rotating over an open fire, and that was spectacular. But I was also able to find great seafood, bar-b-q, and some sandwiches that were nothing like I had ever had before. I still do not know how to describe the cuisine in Patagonia, but I can tell you that there are some places, especially in Puerto Natalis, that are delicious, and can compete with many other countries out there.
I also thought that the language would not be that big of a barrier considering that I am starting to pick up a little Spanish. I would even go as far as to say that my Spanglish es muy bueno. Spanish is the main language used in this part of the world, and I was able to get by okay when reading it. It was when I had to interact with the locals that my limited Spanish did not do so well. I have gotten used to the Peruvian accent, and the Chilean and Argentinian accents are dramatically different. I have to really concentrate on what people were saying, and I still could not get it because of this barrier. Still, it is a big tourist destination, and there was plenty of English spoken in the region, so it never prevented me from having a great time.
I was also surprised by the amount of German I found there. I am not talking about German visitors because that happens everywhere in the world. I am talking about the German influence that can be found in this part of the world. There were German towns filled with German architecture serving German food. I was not aware that the German people were also some of the ones who immigrated to this part of the world, and I knew that after World War II that some Germans came out here. But I never thought that I would see their influence in the towns, and people.
After a while, I started to look closely at all of my surroundings, looking for those surprises. They started to pop up all over the place, one part familiar, and yet at the same time exotic enough to remind me that I was in a different place, experiencing a season during the time of the year I was not expecting it. The whole trip became another moment of wonder and made Patagonia one of those places that I will carry with me wherever I go.
Of course, the real attraction to this part of the world is the natural beauty. It seems as if Patagonia is one of the untouched places left in the world. Yes, there are the towns filled with restaurants and hotels, but they are a ways from the natural attractions that can be found out there. Tours do come through to drop off a bunch of tourists. Still, if you plan your time right, you can find yourself in some spectacular locations where it feels like you are the only ones there.
It did not take me long to adjust to the change of seasons and accept what I was seeing as part of my Summer Break. I got into the groove of the towns and forgot that my family living on the other half of the world was enduring a cold, and bitter winter. I do not think that I will have a problem making this adjustment as I continue to live in the southern hemisphere. Jus like the dogs that we ran into in all of the places we visited, I start to become comfortable with my surroundings and enjoyed them for what they had to offer when they were willing to offer it.
Until next time, enjoy those seasons whenever they are given to you.
In a small vacation resort town among the volcanoes of Chile right next to the lake district, and wine country, the architecture reminds one of a small German town in the Black Forest. Among these beautiful buildings, there is one that sticks out more than all of the others, and draws visitors to it. The building is hard to miss. People will take a stroll along the beachfront and come across this building, and wonder what it is they are looking at. It is the strange museum of one of Chile’s most known artists, Pablo Fierro, and it is the main attraction in the small town of Puerto Varas.
What exactly in the Museo Pablo Fierro? Well, that is hard to describe, and the pictures do not do it justice either. It is definitely something that people need to experience. Basically it is the studio of Pablo Fierro and he opens it up to the public from 9:30 to 1, and 3 to 8 everyday but Sunday. You can wander around the place, look at the art, and interact with the way he has put together the house.
The museum reminds me of Meow Wolf, and could easily have been the inspiration for it considering that it predates that museum by almost twenty years. There are random things that are place all over the house, and at times you will find yourself in an old boat, a cuckoo clock or school bus. Everything is interactive, and there is a lot of strange things placed in weird location, but there also seems to be some kind of logic concerning how things are palced.
The surprises are endless and you do have to play around with what you see because sometimes what you think is a wardrobe turns into an entrance to another room, or a door will open to a beautiful sight that you had not expected.
My favorites were what I called the ghosts that we hanging out in various places in the house. They were men that were put together in an origami fashion from large pieces of cardboard. They looked a little out of place, especially with the first one that I found, but in an odd way, they also looked like they belonged to this living museum.
And that is the best way to describe what Pablo Fierro has and continues to create. It is a living piece of art that grows and builds upon itself based on the whim of its creator. It is a work that you have to walk through in order to experience it the way that it is meant to, and it is impossible to walk away from when you first come across it. The museum is the must see sight in Puerto Varas, and I think that goes for every time you come here because you do not know how it will evolve the next time you come out this way.
Until next time, look for those crazy places in the towns you visit. That weird location may be the best thing you see on your travels.
One of the things that they do not show you in the pictures of Torres del Paine is the weather. Well, they do show you the weather, but only one those days when it is perfect. The sun is shining. There is a slight breeze. People might even be walking around wearing shorts. This is the ideal, and I get why they show these pictures. This is the best way to sell a vacation to this part of the world. The reality of the situation is that Torres del Paine is on the tip of South America where the weather is unpredictable and though those beautiful days do exist, there are just as many rainy, cold, and windy days, even in the middle of the summer, so the hikes do not always go as planned.
We had this problem with one of the hikes that we had planned to go on to, Mirador Cuernos. This is a very popular hike with the tour groups. It starts off at a cafateria just a little down the road from the Hotel Pehoe, and after a leisurley twenty minute stroll it takes people to a big waterfall that many people stop at to take pictures and watch large portions of water dive over a cliff. But if you take this hike another three kilometers away, the crowds start to die down, and you are rewarded with some of the more impressive views of the mountains in the area. This is the reason to come out and take this hike.
The hike basically follows the lake that feeds into the waterfall that most of the people stop at. It is on a well-groomed path that is wide and basically flat. There are a couple of rises on it, but it is nothing to strenuous and most people should be able to complete the hike without any problem. In fact, I saw many people on the hike that did not even bother to bring water or any additional equipment with them, and treated the hike as a lovely Sunday stroll. But do not be deceived; that could be the worst thing that you do if you take this hike.
Like I said earlier, the weather in Torres del Paine is unpredictable. A beautiful sunny day that you see in most of the pictures of the area can turn on you really quick, and you might find yourself out in the middle of nowhere as a storm blows in over the mountains. And let me tell you that when I storm blows in, it is not at all a pleasant experience. The winds out there can be extreme. We experienced one such day where we struggled to walk and after certain gusts, even continue to stand. Even though, the path is flat and wide, the weather can add a new diificulty to the hike. There are even times when they will shut down the path if the winds are too strong which happened to us the first time we attempted to make this hike.
Still, we did not let this deter us, and we came back another day when the weather was perfect. It wasn’t shorts weather, but it was just crisp enough to make for the perfect conditions to make a hike. We packed layers just in case the weather changed on us, and we brought a small lunch to enjoy at the beach we came across on the shore of the lake. And when we finally made it to the viewpoint, it was worth the wait. The views were stunning, and the sun shining on the peaks made for the perfect conditions to take pictures. It was a great hike to take that gets you close to the same places on the W loop and it only takes a couple hours to do, easily worth the time for those that are not doing the bigger loops.
Thank you for following me on this exploration of places to go in Torres del Paine besides the W and O loops, and I hope it gives you some ideas for your trip out to this area.
While doing the loops in Torres del Paine, there are opportunities the visit the vast fields of glacial ice that are there. It gives the hikers the opportunity to take kayaks and row up to the glaciers, or to even put on crampons and walk on the ice. But for those of us who have not gotten the tickets needed to get on the W or O loops, there is another way to get out to the glaciers and experience what they have to offer, the Lago Grey ferry.
The Lago Grey ferry is a boat that leaves from the Hotel Lago Grey three times a day to take about 100 guests out to the three faces of the Grey Glacier and to return them safely back to the park. The whole experience takes about three hours from check-in to return back to your car, and it is a great way to see the glaciers while visiting Torres del Paine.
Check in takes place at Hotel Lago Grey, but this is not actually where people hop on to the boat. You receive your ticket there, and then are asked to drive your car five minutes down the road to another parking lot for a cafeteria that you will have to walk past to get to the boat. It is not a simple walk either to get to the boat. It takes anywhere from thirty to forty-five minutes, and winds its way through a forest, and over a bridge even before you are able to see the boat that will take you out to the glacier.
This is where the hike really begins. There is a long stretch of pebble-filled beach that you will have to cross. It is not easy to walk over and it is not handicap accessible in any capacity. The weather does not help to make this part of the hike any better. You are exposed to the elements when making the trek, and we were battered by wind and biting rain, so it is important to bring rain resistant gear and layers for this voyage to stay dry. Also understand that the weather changes in an instant in this part of the world. It was really cold while making the trek, but then it was sunny and beautiful when we were out by the glaciers.
Also understand that the ferry company will cancel the trip if the weather gets too bad. Torres del Paine is notorious about the wind that can come whipping down the mountain, and if it gets too windy, it is no longer safe to take even the large ferry the twelve kilometers out to the glaciers. At first I did not believe that the wind could be that strong, but we experienced it on other days, and I would not want to be out there on the boat if the wind was as strong as we felt it on a certain day.
But on those nice days, the ferry will get you really close to the glacier, and then it is a wonderful way to see it. The ticket does come with a drink coupon that will get you either a pisco sour or a calafate sour. If you have never tried either of these drinks, this is a good opportunity to try one though they are not the best versions of these drinks I have ever had. I would recommend trying them somewhere else where they make each drink special, and they are not mass produced for quick consumption.
The boat also has two viewing decks from which to look at the glaciers. There is one on the front of the boat, and another on the top. Kids are not allowed to be on the one on the front of the boat, but they can still see the glaciers well from the top deck. You are once again exposed to the elements while on these decks, and all of the people crowd on to them to get pictures, but I was surprised at how well they held all of these people. I never felt like it was too crowded and we were able to find our places on the decks to take amazing pictures of the glacier, and enjoy the scenery. We were also there on a beautiful day so it was not too cold on the decks, but I can see this changing if the weather is not as great.
You might not get as close to the glacier this way as you would if you hiked right up to it, or paddled there in a kayak, but then again you do not need to exert yourself as much to enjoy them still the same. The hike out to the boat and back is a little bit of a workout, but most people should be able to make it without too much difficulty, and there is not a time crunch when leaving the boat and they gave you plenty of time to get out to the boat. So if you want to see some glaciers while out in Torres del Paine, and you are not on either of the loops, this is a great way to do it.
We had an hour to kill in the afternoon and the weather was beautiful so we decided to take a leisurely stroll down the road to the Explora Hotel where we heard that there was an easy boardwalk stroll to see a waterfall next to the hotel. What we did not realize was that the boardwalk was actually a maze of paths set up by the hotel that did not always go directly to the viewpoint of the waterfall. In fact, what we thought would be a twenty minute stroll to see a waterfall turned into an hour and half of wandering over old wooden paths, always hearing the waterfall, but taking a long time to finally get to the spot that we had heard about.
We traveled from Campground Pehoe by turning right out of the parking lot from the restaurant and walking fifteen minutes to the Explora Hotel. The boardwalk was hard to miss when looking from the right side of the road, but this was the back part of the boardwalk, and we made a few mistakes from this point. When wer got to our first four-way intersection on the boardwalk, we thought taking a right would be the logical choice because this led to the lake and we could hear the waterfall coming from this direction. But this was incorrect. This took down to a dock where a large boat was parked, and we could see the rapids that were formed at the top of the waterfall, but could not see the waterfall itself. It was still okay because we had some beautiful views of the mountains in the distance and the whole lake, but we knew there was a better view, and we just needed to find it.
We backtracked and took the left turn this time because if we had gone straight from our original position, this would have taken us to the hotel. This part of the boardwalk seemed promising even though it was taking us down to the hotel’s spa. Still, there was another fork in the boardwalk that went right and took us down by the lake on the other side of the hotel. This followed the shore of the lake and its calm demeanor. We were able to get nice views from here as well, and there were even a couple of ducks sitting on the side of the lake that were there to greet us. Just to warn you, the boardwalk was at its most dangerous here with many of the board rotted and ready to break at any moment, but we took it slowly and were able to get to the other side without any problem.
This is where we were rewarded with the waterfall. We had to climb up a series of rickety wooden stairs to get to it, but once again we took it slowly and we made it up without a problem. Lo and behold, there was a waterfall there. It was a great spot to get some great photos and we were still able to talk over the roar. Even though it turned into a much longer hike than we were anticipating, it still made for a fun outing, and we were able to find some other nice viewpoints along the way.
Going back we found the last of the boardwalks that took us straight to the hotel’s parking lot. It took us a lot longer than we expected but eventually we found the path that we were originally supposed to take to make this a twenty minute stroll instead of the afternoon adventure that we had. Still, I am glad that we did it the way that we did because I think we got more out of the experience. It is a great way to spend some time if you have a lovely afternoon and you really do not have anything better to do.
When hiking the W loop or the O loop in Torres del Paine in Chilean part of Patagonia, one of the benefits of it is having a place to stay each night while out there. Anybody who has looked into staying out in this national park has discovered that the price of lodging is through the roof. Some people find it so expensive that they decide to do day trips from Puerto Natalis instead, but doing that means that you are missing half of the fun that can be found in this park. I have enjoyed staying in the park, but I will admit that it was expensive to do so, but I did not go for the hotel option. Instead, we stayed at the Campground Pehoe. It is situated in between to of the bigger hotels in the park, and it is considerably more affordable than the hotels.
Now keep in mind that affordablity is a relative term. Campground Pehoe is easily the most expensive campground that I have ever stayed at, and the benefits to staying at this place do not necessarily match with some less expensive campgrounds I have stayed at around the world. We stayed in one of the canvas domes that are on the edge of the campground. They do offer some amazing views of the mountains over the lake, and we did not have to set up camp, but we were still paying over $130 a night in U.S. currency. This did not come with any great ammenities such as electricity or heat. It was a basic room with a couple pieces of furniture, a bed, and a hardwood floor. It stayed cool during the day, but I could see if the sun came out that the tent would get extremely hot. Fortunately, we were in Patagonia where the weather rarely gets that hot, so it always stayed at a comfortable temperature.
There is a shared restroom not too far away which is great during the daylight hours, but makes for a cool, slow trek at night, especially if the moon is not creating enough light. On the other hand, at night when it is clear, you can see a vast network of stars because you are far enough away from any light pollution to destroy this spectacle for you. There is also a restaurant close by that also acts as a cafateria. It does not have a lot of amenities that you can use, but it does supply hot water in the morning for coffee, and a place to sit during down time or while rain comes blowing in. In other words, even the best of spots in this place offer to simplest of features for you to enjoy your time there.
They do have camp shelters as well. There are plenty of these around, and they still cost more than you would find at a typical campsight in other parts of the world. They do offer you a shelter though for you to set up your tent and to protect you from the wind and rain that come intermittently in this campground. The problem comes with the fact that you need to bring all of your camping gear with you. If you are able to do that this is a bargain, but if not, you can still rent all of the equipment from the campsight, but when you add up all of the costs, it ends up costing almost the same as renting a dome, and then you have to spend a lot of time setting it all up.
They do have a restaurant there where they cook everything over a grill heated up by throwing big logs on to a fire. The selection is not amazing, but after a long day of hiking and exploring the park, the choice between a huge steak or a hunk of grilled salmon is the only thing you really need to think about. The food portions are huge, and they are not fancy, but they are prepared well. I was never disappointed in the food, and when I wanted a snack, they had a selection of quick grocery store bites that could satisfy that hunger during the day. They also had hot water in the morning and throughout the day, so if you were looking for a cup of coffee in the morning, or a cup of instant soup in the afternoon, it was really easy to make. They do turn off the water for dinner which we found out the hard way, but if you plan ahead, it is not a problem.
Overall, it is a great place to stay despite the price. It keeps you warm and dry during the crazy changes in the weather that can be found at Torres del Paine, and when it is gorgeous outside, the campgrounds might have some of the best views in the park. It is the perfect place for those who are looking to spend time in the park but have more of a budget. It isn’t perfect, and if you go in thinking that it is a couple of nights camping, you will be happy with what you get out of it.
It is a badge among many hikers to travel all the way down to the southern tip of South America and do the five or six day hikes that are a part of the W loop or O loop in Torres del Paine. Not to take away from the people that are able to accomplish these great feats, but there are many other ways, and many other hikes to take that are just as spectacular in this National Park of Chile. It also does not require you to book the hikes six months in advance to make sure that you have the limited spots that are available on these paths, and if you can find the trailheads, you are welcome to enjoy these hikes on your own time. This short series will explore some of the paths and other things available that I was able to take during my five night stay in the park, and it might help you plan your trip if you were not able to book the W or O loops.
The first one is one of the easiest to find, Mirador Condor. It is a forty-five minute hike out, and forty-five minutes back that takes you to the top of a ridge that will give you some of the more iconic views from the park. The path is groomed well, and for the most part is pretty easy to travel on. It is a little steep on the way up, and there are parts with loose soil that makes footing a little slippery, but if you take it slow on the way up, it is still not too difficult. I would recommend bringing hiking poles as well and this will help give you the balance that you need to reach the top.
The views are not the only reason to take this hike. Just as the name implies, this is also the scrounching grounds for condors, and if you are lucky, you can find them hunting for food. These birds are enormous, and watching their graceful dance as they float over the peaks was one of the highlights of this trip. They are not always out, but they usually hunt in the morning hours when it is not too windy, so if you plan your trip well, it will increase your chances to see them. I know that the picture I included does not make it look like they are that great, but it is hard to take a picture of one of these birds that does it justice. You just have to go out an visit to see how majestic these birds really are. Also, I am told that nine times out of ten when making the hike up to this peak, people will not see condors, so if you do see them, consider yourself extremely lucky.
Another reason that you might want to go earlier in the morning is because of the winds. On the way up, it was not very windy, and I even joked about some of the signs we ran into that warned about the high winds. Right when we summited, the winds came, and apparently heard me joking about them because they came in strong. They were not joking about the wind either. It blows so hard that it feels like it could easily sweep you off of the mountain, and there was a saddleback in between two peaks where the path takes you, and it is here where the wind was at its worst. We ended up walking directly into the wind on the way down in this part, and that might have been the most strenuous part of the whole hike.
The trail head is pretty easy to find. We left from Campground Pehoe. If you are leaving from the parking lot with the restaurant in it, it is to your left. We walked down that way, and we reached where the parking lot for the trailhead was in a couple of minutes. It was really easy to find, and there is even signs that point to where it starts. This is not the only way to the peak. There is another path on the other side of the mountain that you can find by traveling another kilometer and you will be able to find the parking lot right before the bridge that takes you to the hotel on the island in the middle of the lake. We did not take this path, but we talked to some people on top of the peak, and it sounds like it was just as difficult as the one that we took. Either way, you should be able to find your way up to this amazing viewpoint in the middle of Torres del Paine.
One of the biggest attractions in Patagonia is the national park, Torres del Paine, and you can find a stream of cars, campers, and tour buses taking the one road out of Puerto Natalis every day during the summer to bring various travelers to this spot to enjoy the scenery, take in the hikes, and snap a few pictures to bring back as momentoes. But there is a stop along the way that many people skip out on and they should take the time to explore this spot, Milodon Ceuvas. This is three natural caves that were formed when the sea levels had reached the lower shelves of the mountains, and dug away the sediment to create these caves.
There are many reasons to make this stop besides the caves. The first is a short hike about an hour long there and back that will take you to the top of a plateau that overlooks the whole valley all the way from Puerto Natalis to the start of Torres del Paine. It is a little bit of a rocky hike up to the top, but with some good hiking boots, and a bottle of water, most people can make it to the top without any trouble. I especially like the hike because when you get there and take a couple of pictures from the right angles, it looks like you accomplished a more difficult hike than you really did.
The other big attraction is the Devil’s Chair. It is a rock formation that sits right off the road and is the first impressive sight that you will see on your way to Torres del Paine. This can be easily reached by hiking along the valley for a kilometer from the visitor’s center, or for those that are not as adventerous, you can open the gate and drive your car down the dirt road to the rock and look at it. If there is one thing to skip on this trip, it is the hike out to the rock. It does not look as impressive up close as it does when you are further away, and there are plenty of views of it as you explore the rest of the area.
The thing to stop for is the caves. The one closest to the visitor’s center is the easiest to get to and has a paved path all of the way up there. The walkway has many signs along the way that talk about the formation of the caves, the various types of animals that used to live in the area over the centuries, and the how the first people in the area used to live. It is also the biggest of the caves, and it looks like most of the time people are allowed to walk all the way around the cave, but the back portion of the cave was closed while I was out there. It is also a very yound cave in terms of what features can be found there. There are only a few stalagtites being formed so far, but most of the ceiling and walls look as smooth as a new canvas waiting for the artist to deliver his paint.
The other two caves are similar and it takes a couple of kilometers to get out to the furthest one. The one in the middle is considered one of the most important finds in all of Patagonia as it had human remains in there that show that this was the oldest place of human habitation in all of the region. The caves are neat, but they do not take much time to explore so if you are not up for a good hike, then they might not be worth the effort. I enjoyed them a lot and would do the hike again, and it does not take more than a couple of hours to do the whole loop.
If you are taking that drive out to Torres del Paine, I would recommend making this stop along the way. It will whet you appetite for the exciting things you will see when you finally make it to the national park.
There are two big attractions outside of El Calafate, both of which are for the outdoor enthusiast. The bigger of the two, or the one that I am told is the most visited sight in Patagonia is the Moreno Glacier. There are many ways to experience this glacier. There are treks that will take you out on the ice. One is more of an adventure than the other one, so depending on your hiking level, you find the one more appropriate to you. There is also a ferry like ship that people can book passage on and it will give them a tour of the lake, getting close to the glacier so people can see it calf. Many people load up their cars and drive up to the main visitor center where there is a walkway that will take them to many great viewpoints where they can still hear the rumble of the ice as it falls into the water. And there is the option that we took which is to put on some wetsuits, grab a paddle, and push a kayak off from a sandy shore two kilometers from the base of the glacier.
Each one of these options allow you to explore the glacier in many different ways but they limit the amount of people that can experience any of the options except for the walkways by the visitor’s center. Because of these limitations, the excursions have a tendency to start to book up, so I would recommend to book them at least a month in advance, or if you are trying to play the weather game to look for a good day to enjoy the glacier, no later than a week earlier. If you do wait until later do understand that some options might not be available. This is what happened to us, and part of the reason that we ended up kayaking instead of doing one of the treks.
This is not to say that kayaking is a bad option. I love kayaking, and though it does not get you as close to the glaciers as the big boat will, it still gets you close, and the perspective you get from being low on the water makes the glacier look the most impressive. It towers over you and a couple of times, we actually felt the waves created by the glacier shedding a cathedral-sized hunk of ice from its edge. My issue was seeing the glacier this way was that I have visited a couple of glaciers by kayak, and I really want to try voyaging over one some time in my lifetime.
Still, the company, Patagonia Chic, we went with supplied us with the perfect day to go out and do this. It did require an early morning as they came by our hotel with a bus to take up into the national park. On the ride up, a guide talked to us about the area and some interesting facts about it. My favorite was where the name of the town, El Calafate comes from. There is a berry that grows on wild bushes in the area that is called calafate. It looks like a tiny blueberry, and people pick them to eat or turn into a jam that you can find all over the town.
After an hour and half ride, they dropped us off with the kayaking company. The company supplied us with wetsuits, kayaks, and two guides. There was a little talk about how to operate a kayak which is always nice to have, especially for those that have never kayaked before, and our guide was so good that he gave me a couple of pointers that I have never heard before making my kayaking experience even better.
We had a beautiful day to go out to see the glacier and explore some of the recently birthed icebergs. The weather was 21 degrees Celsius which I am told eight degrees warmer than the typical temperature during this time of the year. I am also told that they do still go out in adverse weather conditions, but they do go out with two expert guides to educate and help people guide themselves through choppy waters. The also have a Zodiac boat that follows a safe distance away so as to appear as if it is not there at all. This is mainly for those times when some capsizes their boat so they can pull them out of the chilly water as fast as they can. Not that we needed it, but it was nice to know that the company took safety very seriously.
The whole experience on the water lasts for about an hour and a half. Patagonia Chic gave us a couple more hours to enjoy ourselves at the visitor’s center. There is a cafeteria style restaurant for food if you are hungry but you can also bring your own food and enjoy it at one of the park benches close to the walkways. It also gives you plenty of time to explore all of the walkways at a leisurely pace allowing for more pictures of the glacier from many different angles. It makes for a long day, but one that you will not soon forget. I also like the many options that are available to explore the glacier. Though I did not stay out in El Calafate long enough to try another excursion, I now live close enough that I am now thinking about doing a different excursion if I ever find myself out in this area of the world again.
Until next time, I hope you are able to find those experiences that are amazing, no matter how you get to enjoy them.
John Collings 