Travel – John Collings

Happy New Year from Machu Picchu

It is one of the most recognizable sights in the world. People have put it on their bucket list as one of the things that they want to see in their lifetimes. It is the center of one of the most mysterious and intriguing cultures of the world. Lots have already been written about it, from its discoveries, to its conflict with the Spanish conquistadors, to the way people make a pilgrimage out of it in the modern day. There has already been a lot written about Machu Picchu, so I will not try to cover the same material and will give you my wandering thoughts about the place because I cannot visit a place like this without writing about it.

To start off, I have been holding off on visiting this place because I knew any visitor I had in Peru would want to make a stop there, so there was no reason to go out of my way to visit if I knew that I was going to go there anyway. I had made this mistake with Petra in Jordan and by the time I left after four years, I was starting to become an expert with that sight. Even with this wait, I still made my first visit to Machu Picchu within six months of moving to Peru. It just shows you how willing people were to jump on that chance to visit this sight that I was taking the trek during my first big break in the region.

I also went during a slower season. There are many paths that are opened to guests to travel through the sight so they are not just running any direction that they want and threatening to damage the beauty of this location. It was during the rainy season or Peru’s summer. Not all of the paths were open at this time because some of the more adventurous ones are too dangerous tonight travel on. Also, most people avoid this time because Machu Picchu can be covered in clouds, making it hard to see, especially in the morning. We were exceptionally lucky in this regard. We had scheduled a hike through the complex during the late afternoon, and another hike around the outside of the complex during the morning. On both occasions, we avoided the weather, and the clouds, but I am told that this is not the norm during this time of the year. I will have to come back during the high tourist season to see what the difference actually is.

There are two paths connected with the sight, one that I knew about, the other I didn’t, that I really want to do. The first is the Inka Trail. It is a four day trek that takes you over the ridge that gives you the iconic picture of Machu Picchu that everybody has seen. The other is a steep hike up the mountain that sits in the background of the iconic photo that takes people to a more obscure collection of buildings where the high shaman used to live. It is supposed to be a tough hike, but the views from that place have to be amazing.

There are also guides that sit outside of the sight and are willing to take you in and give you more context of what you are seeing. If you are doing route 3, I would highly recommend hiring one of them. They are very knowledgeable and ours was a great photographer as well, getting us pictures with everybody in it. Our guide was able to point out a lot of the subtleties of the buildings while giving us a perspective of the Inka culture that we would have missed without them. It was also nice having that knowledge with us as we did route 2 without a guide because we could now look at things with a different perspective and still know what we were looking at. At the time this post is being written, the going rate was 70 soles for person which translates to about 15 dollars. Totally worth it, though I am sure that if I go back enough, I will be able to supply the information without the guide.

Also, the llamas rule the sight. We were told that there were sixteen of them on the ground with the newest one just having been born. They make for some great pictures and they are used to the tourists who go up to them to get that snapshot. They serve another purpose because they graze on the grass that grows on the terraces, keeping it relatively short. I know they are not the most majestic of animals, but in this environment, they look regal.

It was a great first trip to this sight, and I know I will come back again to try a different experience there. I can’t wait for those moments just as could not wait for this one, but I will because I know I will eventually have more visitors and I will get to see the sight through their eyes the next time around.

Until next time, look forward to those adventures you have always wanted to take and get excited when you eventually get to take them.

Above the Canopy

There is an all-inclusive resort close called Inkaterra to Porto Maldonado, Peru in the Amazon rain forest where they have many different activities to keep the guests busy. Each day is supplied with various hikes, boat rides or excursions that will take you to various parts of the rain forest to explore. My favorite excursion so far has been the canopy hike. It allows for a view of the forest that is hard to come by. You are allowed to raise yourself above the lower levels and get to look at it the same way that the monkeys and birds that wander through the forest get to see it.

It does take a little bit of a voyage to get to the towers that will take you above the canopy of the forest. The resort will load everybody on a boat and take them down the river to a short trail that will take you to the first tower. They will take you out there during the planned time whether it is sunny, rainy, or just murky out, so go out there making sure you are wearing the right clothes you will need to stay dry. I took the boat rise during a torrential downpour and was stuck in the front of the boat. Though I was wearing my best protective gear, I was still soaked to the bone by the time I arrived.

Still, being wet did not take away from the experience. I climbed up a tower built out of rust wood, a strong wood from the forest that looks like it is rotting away, but is actually super strong. The tower took us up forty meters to look down at the first canopy of the forest with six suspension bridges in-between the two towers that were connected to the bigger trees in the forest. The goal was to walk over the six bridges to get to the other side while looking down on the forest and hopefully catching sight of some of the birds and animals that live in this altitude of the trees.

Because of the rain, we were not able to find any animals, but it had cleared off enough for us to enjoy the view. They would only let one person walk across the bridge at a time which was probably a good thing because even with one person, it was rather bouncy. It also caused us to take a good amount of time for the whole group to get from one side to the other, but once things got started on the bridges, it did not feel like the wait took too long between the bridges.

I would not claim that those who are afraid of heights would have a problem with this excursion, but I did go with a couple of people that are not big fans of heights, and they never felt as if their lives were in danger. The bridges are a little bouncy, but you feel secure as you cross over them, and there are places to hold on to allowing you to feel as if nothing really bad could happen as you cross over. When all was said and done, it was a lot of fun, and if the place allowed for it to happen, I would easily go out there to experience it again. Maybe the next time I would be dry and get to be able to see the animals come out of their hiding. Until then, I will just have to enjoy the next experience that life has planned for me.

Making Chocolate

My favorite part of traveling around the world is falling into those unexpected experiences that treat me to a new way of looking at something that we take as commonplace. It is not uncommon for me to stand in a checkout line at the grocery store when I get a quick hankering for chocolate, so I scan the offering right in front of me, and quickly grab one of my favorites to throw on the pile. I don’t think about the process it took to get to this place in the grocery store; I just think about how I can get into my stomach. But I recently got to experience the process that it took to make chocolate in the first place, and not from the perspective of a huge corporation making the treat, but from the way it was prepared for centuries beforehand.

In a hut in the middle of the Amazon rain forest, I stood before a bowl of cocoa beans that had been roasted in the sun. These beans come from a podlike fruit that can be found on trees in this part of the world. The pod is a distinct yellow when it is ready to harvest, and when the pod is opened up, the beans are white in a milky substance. It is the roasting process that turns them into the darker color that we know chocolate to eventually be.

The first process is taking off the husk from each of the beans. It is easier than I thought it would be, and there was only a couple of times when the bean turned into a powdery substance that would be used in making cocoa. It also left the tips of my fingers with a fine powdery substance that when licked made me feel like I was eating the cereal Cocoa Puffs.

When all of the beans’ shells had been removed, we moved what was left over to a large flat stone, and used a larger rounded stone to grind the beans into a nice powder. It was a good start for what needed to happen, but the stone did not get the cocoa into a fine enough powder, so this is when we moved over to the next step.

We moved all the powder to a more powerful grinder. This one was harder to use as some the bigger chunks left over from the stone would get stuck in the grinder. Still, with a little bit of leverage, we were able to run all the powder through and turn it into a very fine substance. Still was not ready for consumption.

This is when you start adding the sugar and condensed milk to prepare it to the way you like it. I always wondered how certain chocolates had a spiciness or unique flavor and I am sure that this is the same time that other ingredients were added to achieve that desired effect. With the extra ingredients added, it went back to the fine grinder to get it back to that consistency needed for the final step.

This is when the aluminum foil was brought out, and the ground cocoa was spread out into it, and then nicely folded over to be brought to the refrigerator. After about fifteen minutes in the chilled environment, it becomes the type of chocolate that you might in a grocery store, granted not the convenient one that you could find in a checkout aisle, but the more refined kind that can be found in the baking aisle of the store. The whole process helped me appreciate this worldwide delight even more, and I will never look at chocolate the same way again.

Until next time, look for those experiences that will help you see in the world in a new way.

Can You Spot the Animals?

The Amazon is teaming with life. In order to know that this is true, all you have to do is stand still and listen to the noises of the forest. You will hear various birds calling, frogs barking, and monkeys howling, but as soon as you try to look for them, they become elusive. Still, with a good eye, you can find them hidden amongst the fauna of the forest.

We went out into the wild on many occasions, and if it was not for our guide, I do not believe that we would have found all of the animals that we found. I was amazed at the way he was able to find not only the monkeys in the trees, but as the tiniest of bugs hiding on the branches, or the caiman lurking in the roots of a tree in the river. It gave me a new appreciation of what it meant to live in this part of the world. Here are some pictures I took of some of the animals that we found in our travels. See if you can find the animals in the pictures.

There is an otter staring at the camera while enjoying a breakfast of piranha.

What our guide often referred to as the stinky bird with a spiky haircut, but I don’t think that is its technical name.

A small bird that is related to the owl.

A caiman, a smaller relative of the alligator, looking at us from the water as we passed by in a long canoe.

A row of bats getting their beauty sleep during the day so they could hunt at night.

A white heron trying not to look to conspicuous on a branch down a tributary.

A capuchin monkey looking down at us wondering why we are not taking the palm trees that make the rain forest highway.

A red howler monkey catching up with the rest of its crew.

Some of the animals were more obvious to see, but with help, I was able to find many more. Despite this, I am also sure that there were many more that were out that observing us that I never got to see. It just made going back out into the forest an adventure every time because I never knew what it was I was going to find.

Until next time, keep searching for those hidden gems that you know are out there waiting to be found.

A Relaxing Long Weekend

Vacation is not always vacation. Sometimes it feels as if it is a little bit of a chore that you go off in order to gain more experiences in this thing called life. Because of this, you can run off to exotic locations around the world to try to see what there is to see there, and enjoy all the things that the place has to offer only to find out that when you return from it, you are more tired than when you left for vacation. It is not a bad thing because those memories are what we hold on to while we work our way through employment. But every once in a while, it is nice to go off to some place with no other plan than to sit by a pool, have a couple of drinks, and let those tight muscles unwind as you let go of the worries of the world you left behind.

Of course, Thanksgiving weekend is the perfect time to do exactly just this, especially if you live far enough away from the United States where you cannot enjoy the American traditions. I am lucky enough to work for an American company in Peru, so I still got the holiday off, and it makes it even better when the rest of the country does not. This allowed me to run off to a relaxing weekend without the holiday crowds that might be attracted there by those who also have the time off. I took off down south from Lima to a resort that was situated on the grounds of a winery, and enjoyed myself by sitting back and finding out what this out-of-the-way place had to offer.

This was to be a different kind of vacation, one where I did not go hunting for the great touristy thing to do; instead, I just looked at what the place around me had to offer and enjoyed that. There was no reason for me to leave the resort because there were a lot of fun things to do, and it was always accompanied by a glass of wine straight from the vineyard.

What fun and games that the place did not have available were accompanied by a couple boardgames that I brought with me, as well as the other games that the people I went out there with as well. If I am being honest, the weekend turned into me playing board games, and reading books by the pool. I know that does not sound very exciting, but as a teacher approaching the end of the semester, this was the type of vacation that I needed.

And if I ever felt like I was going to be bored, I could always take a stroll out in the fields. The weather was perfect for this, and at dusk, it was fun to wander through the vines, looking at the grapes, and trying to find what creatures were out there waiting for their chance to dine. I did find many birds flying about, but it was better at dusk because this was when the surprises would start to wander around.

We went out into the fields for the main purpose of finding owls that we could take pictures of. We had heard that they were out there, and it did not take us long to find a few of them. Getting a good picture of them was a little more difficult because when I got to close to them, they would screech at me and fly away. Still, I was not to be deterred, and I was able to finally get a picture that I am happy to share with you now.

There were a lot of other surprises that could be found on the grounds of the resort. Not just the views, but the old relics that they collected to add a little character to the place. There were the women placed on the front of ships to guide the sailors through their long ocean voyages, old carts that were used to carry the wine into town, and old clay pots that used to be buried under the ground used to let the wine ferment.

I was also fortunate enough to be able to make this trip with a great group of friends. It made this holiday weekend away from the United States feel like I had found a family that I could celebrate with. There was plenty of downtime, but there was also a person there ready to pick me up when I felt like having something to do. It made this little getaway resort feel like a bigger vacation than it actually was, and will be part of the reason that it will stick with me for years to come.

It is the reason that many people reserve the place for large gatherings. They create a destination event where a lot of friends can gather together to enjoy their time together. The place will organize the food, the wine, and the entertainment with you, and then after the event, all you have to do is stumble your way to your room and crash for the evening. There are also enough places on the ground where various parties can go on at the same time without having to disturb another one some place else.

It was a great way to spend the long weekend, and I look forward to finding other little places like this one in Peru where I can get away from the big city and recharge again. It will make my time out here even more enjoyable.

Intipalka Winery Tour

I had a long weekend, so I took a four-hour drive down the coast from Lima through the small town of Ica, and arrived at the grounds of Intipalka Winery where they have places to stay among their vineyards. They provide you with everything you need to enjoy yourself during your stay, but one of the things that they schedule you for is a tour of the winery where they produce not only fine reds, and whites, but also the drink of Peru, pisco. It is not required for you to go on this tour, but considering that it comes with a wine-tasting, a sunset viewing, and a stroll through the vines, it is worth considering.

Like most things in Peru, the tour was delivered in Spanish, and since I am still in the process of picking up the language, there were a lot of the details that went over my head during the tour. I did get that the pisco is the main drink that they produce on the grounds, and there are three different types of pisco. I also learned that pisco is a strong drink sitting at about 42 percent alcohol, though the sweet taste does not make it seem like you are drinking something that strong.

I also learned that the grounds of the vineyards extended much further than it looks like from inside the compound. All of the vines are regularly maintained and the water is supplied from the runoff from the Andes Mountains that loom over the grounds. The grapes do produce nice red and white wines which you can buy at cost in the restaurants, but I would stay away from the rose that they make. It was really sweet, even more so than the pisco, but the other wines are great, and would rival anything that you could find over the border in Chili. And of course, if you do not wish to have a bottle of wine to share, there are always pisco sours or chilcanos.

They do load up cars at the end of the tour and take everybody up to a lookout that looks over the expanse of land they use to create their wine, piscos, and brute champagne. It is here that they allow you to try the sparkling wine while watching the sun set over the fields. The day I went was a little hazy, but I know that this is not always the case. We had much better sunsets the first night we stayed here, and I am looking forward to seeing what the other nights have to offer. Still, it was a pretty location, and the wine added nicely to the atmosphere.

Out of the many things that the place has to offer, it is the one must do thing that you should do. It really highlights the beauty of the region and gives you the insight of what it means to run a winery. Even if your Spanish is not great, you can still get a lot out of the experience.

A Thanksgiving Weekend Getaway

I have been really grateful about the move we have made to Peru. I really have loved living in Lima, and the drastic change in cultural experiences. I have loved the food that I have been able to enjoy since I have moved here. I have loved the dog-friendly environment that has allowed my dog to transition into this new lifestyle. I have not loved the long schedules in-between breaks that have pushed me and my students to really struggle towards the end of the long stretches. I have not loved the few opportunities to go out and see more of the country. So when I have an opportunity to get out there and see more of it, I have taken that chance.

It has only been my second trip out of Lima out of the five months I have lived here, and this time, it was only for the long Thanksgiving holiday weekend. No, Peru does not celebrate this very American holiday, but when you work at an American school, they observe this holiday. The nice thing about this is that many of the places out there do not have that many guests staying at it because it is right before the big tourist season, and most of the people who live in the country have to work on Thursday and Friday. This means that we get to have a relatively quiet getaway in what would be an otherwise crowded location of Peru.

We hired a driver to take us south of Lima to the city of Ica where the desert of the country meets the more fertile land of the Andes mountains. It is the perfect climate to grow grapes, so it is here where the wine country of Peru resides, and there is a winery where you can rent a room on their grounds. They do have a big hotel with many things to do to keep me occupied during this long weekend, but the main thing I am going to do is relax and enjoy the holiday.

It will not be like a traditional Thanksgiving that I would find back in the States, but I think it will do. As of right now, there are not many plans of leaving the grounds until I have to head back to Lima on Sunday, but I will still explore all the little nooks and crannies of this location to get you a lowdown on what this place as to offer while I am here. Please join me in the next couple of days while I explain what this little paradise on the foot of the Andes has to offer.

High in the Andes: My First Outing in Peru

I moved to Lima three months ago, and I have been able to enjoy it quite a bit, but it was time for me to get away from the gloomy skies of the city and see what the mountains just outside of town had to offer. It was Spring Break, so I packed my bags and headed to the second biggest city in Peru, Arequipa. It was not only quite the change in landscape, but also a change in attitude as well. Both places are big tourist destinations, but for different reasons, and it was fun being a tourist in the Andes Mountains rather than living a day to day existence off the coast of the Pacific Ocean. It made me excited for all I was going to see as I learned to live and explore this part of the world.

First of all, Peru is the story of the clash of two long-standing cultures, the Spanish colonialists that sailed over the sea in search of new lands and riches, and the Inca culture at the height of its power as it spread its influence over much of the western part of South America, specifically in the mountainous regions of the Andes. Despite the fact that these conflicts happened centuries ago, the influences of both cultures are present all over this part of Peru.

The ruins of the old civilizations can be found in the mountains still well preserved though nobody has lived in them for a long time. It takes a bit of a hike to get to them, but once there they are worth the visit. You can see the old roads that used to take people from one place to another combined by the stone construction of their homes, walls, and aqueducts. Some of the sights even predate the Inca culture, such as this abandoned town near Yanque which was once the Oyu Oyu village before conquistadors from Toledo came and removed the people to move them over to the now present town of Yanque.

If the small towns and ruins of the Andes are not enough, there are always the bigs city lights of Arequipa that is just over the ridge of the Andes Mountains. Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru, and has about 1 million citizens living there. Though it is a ways off the Pacific coast, it was one of the first place that the Spanish settled when they first arrive, and there influence is all over the older part of the city. You can see it in the plaza in the middle of the city to the large cathedral that looms over that square. The cobblestone streets do allow traffic to drive through them, but at the same time it feels completely walkable as you look at various alpaca shops, restaurants, and souvenir places selling cheese ice-cream. It is not just the language of Peru that was influenced by the Spanish, but there whole towns as well.

Still, it is a blending of both the original culture and the Spanish colonialism that gives Peru its charm. The dresses and dances might remind you of flamenco dancing in Seville, but upon closer inspection the dresses have intricate designs that take from the fauna and boldness of the mountain setting that inspired them. The dance comes with a determination and confidence that could only be found among a group of people who conquered these vast wilderness, and do not necessarily have the grace associated with the dances from Spain. It is its own unique thing, and it is wonderful to watch wherever it might spring up.

The blending of cultures to make a new and unique thing is the basis of much of Peruvian culture, especially their food. I am surprised about the amount of people that know so little about Peruvian food, and in many places in the world, it is almost impossible to find at all. Despite its absence on the world stage, it is one of the best cuisines I have ever experienced. From ceviche to lomo saltado, all of the dish are a culinary delight, and if you are in the mood to try something from one of your favorites, they will put their own spin on it to create something even better than the original. I went to a Thai-Peruvian fusion restaurant in Arequipa called Kao that was a traditional Peru dish, tacu-tacu, with Thai flavors that blended so well together I will never forget the dish.

Peru is the land of numerous surprises and I have only started to explore it. I have been in the big city on the coast and a small section of its mountains. I still have to explore its jungles and river area, and I am sure there are other surprises I am not even aware of yet. Still, I got to roam the majestic mountains of Peru and have been higher above sea level than I have ever been in my life. I have enjoyed the hot springs brought on by the rising steam of active volcanoes. I have gotten to see the graceful flight of the condor, the second largest bird in the world.

I have enjoyed my small exploration of this country so far, and I cannot wait to see what else it, and the rest of this region of the world has to offer. I hope you join me in my journey, and hopefully, I can inspire you enough to make it down here yourself. You will be fascinated with what it has to offer.

Until next time, keep exploring the world and see how we all come together to create something new.

Colca Lodge – Yanque, Peru

When you live in a valley in the mountains of the Andes, there are going to be times when you come across some volcanic activity. When you come across volcanic activity, there are going to be springs that are naturally warmed by the volcanic activity. When you have these hot springs, hotels are going to pop up that will take advantage of this fact to make hot water pools that allow you to soak in them while enjoying the natural surroundings of the environment. This was the place that I ended up at during my recent travels through Peru, and it was not only an immaculate setting, but a great experience as well.

The Colca Lodge sits a twenty-minute drive outside the small town of Yanque in the Colca Canyon region, and its main attraction are the natural hot springs that are found there. But there is so much more to this lodge than just the nice warm pools that are in the area where you can relax after a long day of exploring the high Andes mountains. There is a spa, a nice big pit for late-night campfires, and of course, what every high Andes complex needs, an alpaca farm.

Don’t worry, they have llamas too. Basically, you are given free reign to walk around the grounds and check out these animals as they run, play, and graze. It is also connected to a small museum that talks about the history of these animals in the region as well as the other major draw out to Colca Canyon, the condor. It is a nice way to spend an hour or two, and the animals are completely friendly, even though I never got close enough to one to pet it.

There is really only one place to eat at the Colca Lodge, but they do have enough variety that you will never get bored with the food. The kitchen staff is also well-versed in bringing together many dishes, mainly from Peru, but you can also find some great dishes from Italy, Mexico, and bar fare. They also have a full bar with a great selection of wine, and beer from the region.

Each room has an outdoor entrance that has a small patio that is perfect for sitting out on most of the time. There was a moment when things got a little too hot in the morning, but then the shade took over and it was nice to sit out there and enjoy the scenery. It was the perfect place to sit back to read a book or play a card game, and made the lodge a very comfortable place to stay at.

There are many exciting things to do and see in the area as well. There are some hikes close by that can take you to waterfalls, up ancient terraces where people still farm today, and even the Oyu Oyu ruins. If that is not your cup of tea, a longer drive will take you out to Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world and the sight where many condors can be spotted hunting for carrion. It makes this spot the perfect location for a break from the day to day monotony. I enjoyed a three night stay there and am already thinking about when I could go back and enjoy it again.

Until next time, try to find those special places in your part of the world that allow for relaxation and little bit of culture at the same time.

The Things We See: Wanderings in Peru

In my move to Peru, I did not expect to see the same kind of things I have seen while traveling around the world. I knew that there would be many new and exciting things that I would get to experience while roaming around the sixth continent I have been to, and it was during this Spring Break that I really got to go out and see them. Of course, the first thing I had to put on the list was an alpaca, either that or a llama. I wouldn’t really be in Peru if I had never come across one of these.

And of course, I came along a lot of them. This is nothing unusual for me because there were many a farm in both Oregon and Colorado where I got to see them running around, but the amount of them is greatly increased in Peru. There are many different kinds of them as well from domesticated ones to ones out in the wild roaming free.

No matter which ones I came across, they were pretty tame, and the domesticated ones will even allow you to come up to them and pet them. There is always the chance that you will anger one of them and they will spit at you, but then again, you can say that about any other domesticated animal.

The biggest difference is the landscape that comes with animals. It is high dessert, and once again, both Oregon and Colorado boast that they are also the same kind of environment. However, there is a lot more sand in the high desert locations of Peru, and it is feels a little more desolate. This might be because the Andes are much higher than anything that can be found in North America. I went on a long road trip from Arequipa to Colca Canyon, and the highest point I reached was well over 16,000 feet and there were still mountains and volcanoes around us that reached even higher. I had to keep an active eye on some of the volcanoes because there were times when smoke would billow out of the top of them because they are still active though none are threatening to explode anytime soon.

All of this comes in a land steeped in history and tradition. In the mountains, I could imagine the people traveling across the vast plains to get from one location to another while carrying all of their good on llamas or alpacas. They would arrive in places in time for the market, and to join in the celebrations that take place annually. These celebrations still take place today. I stumbled upon one of these in my travels as I could to see a whole parade of people preparing to show off the local traditional dance, and it wasn’t just the older generation that did this. There were dancers from the age of five all the way up to the mid-fifties, and each one of them impressed me with their ability to dance.

This is not to say that new traditions are not being formed as well. Peru has built a craft beer scene that could rival any other country. It is seen wherever you travel to as there are a variety of beers and ciders to experience. They are also very proud of the beers that they have crafted as they should because they are great. It is a great way to enjoy an evening after one has wandered around to see all the crazy things that this country has to offer.

It just means that each night I get to crawl into bed to dream about what new and exciting things I will get to see tomorrow. It has been fun moving to this part of the world, and I cannot wait to see what else it has to offer. I have only scratched the surface so far, so I hope you join me over the next couple of years as I explore it further.

Thanks for reading, and until next time, get out there and see what your part of the world has to offer.