Travel – John Collings

Six Months in Lima

On a cold, damp winter night six months ago, I landed in my new life in South America, and was driven, tired and worn out to my new apartment that overlooked the Malaecon, a stretch of parks that lines the coast of Lima, Peru. As an international teacher, I get the excitement of moving to new locations around the world and settling into those new places to learn about the cultures of wherever I land. It has been a great way of learning about the world and I get the opportunity to travel and see many of the places centered around these locations.

While I write often about those travel experiences, rarely do I talk about the places where I actually live. I think a lot of that has to do with the fact that when I am at home, and going through my routine, I no longer think about those places as exciting and I do not spend the time to share it with other people. The other thing is that I have never lived in the heart of a place that allowed me to experience it just as the tourists would if they came out to visit. Most of the places where I have landed have been deep in the cities, or skirting the suburbs, and not at the hot spots of the country. My experience so far in Lima has been different. I am in one of the bigger tourist areas of the city, and it is nice to be able to get up every morning and experience the parks, and food that comes with my neighborhood.

The combination of the two has made for a great experience. There are so many great restaurants in my neighborhood and I get to enjoy the Peruvian dishes that have made this cuisine famous around the world. Whether it is eating fresh ceviche, or finding my favorite version of lomo saltado, I am never without a new experience that I can try. Very rarely have I gone to the same restaurant twice, and it is a joy to go out and experience the dining lifestyle that is affordable. It also doesn’t hurt that the views that we get from a lot of these restaurants look out over the beautiful spots that attract people to Lima in the first place.

My dog, Zoey, has also enjoyed the change of pace. The Malecon has been a great place to walk even though we are still working on making her understand that she is not the only dog allowed on the Malecon, and she can make friends with the dogs instead of demanding that they get off her lawn. Despite this occasional energy, she has found many other four legged friends and is eager to go out and explore the areas around our neighborhood. There has also been numerous dog parks around where she could get her run on, and our place has a huge rooftop patio that allows her to lay out in the sun.

I am also lucky to have landed at a great school. Colegio de Franklin Delanor Roosevelt has been an institution in Lima for almost eighty years, and it has established itself as one of the premiere schools in South America. I am working in an amazing program in the school that combines design, English, and media studies to bring students a new experience about interpreting and understanding the world in which the reside. It has renewed my excitement for being a teacher, and I enjoy most of the days that I have to go into work.

I have also been able to sneak out of Lima from time to time to see the amazing landscape that can be found in Peru. The country is one of the most diverse I have ever experienced. There is desert, high mountains, rain forests, and places that create their own way of life by finding a way to turn what is brown and desolate into green and thriving. After six months, I have only begun to scratch the surface of what this country has to offer, and I cannot wait to explore more of the hidden corners that I know are out there.

Ollantaytambo Ruins, Peru

Many people have Peru on their travel bucket list, and when they think of the country, they think of Machu Picchu, and making the hike to this fabled city high in the Andes. It isn’t until they start looking into the voyage that they realize that the first stop they will need to make before getting there is Ollantaytambo, a small city where the roads end and the real trek begins.

There are two ways to get to Machu Picchu from this town. The more popular of the two is the train. It hugs the sacred valley, and will take people to Aquacalientes, the even smaller town that a series of paths will allow them to reach their destination. For the more adventurous traveler, Ollantaytambo is the start f the Inka Trail, the four day hike that will take them through the same sacred valley, but allow people to feel like the explorers that discovered this destination in the first place. Whether by trek or train, the town of Ollantaytambo is definitely worth a couple of days before going on to Machu Picchu.

The first thing that many people will have to do upon arriving in the area is to make the adjustment to the altitude. Back in my Colorado days, this would not have worried me much because Ollantaytambo is only 9,000 feet above sea level. But since I have moved to Lima, and live only a couple hundred feet above sea level, it took me a couple of days to fully adjust. This is also nice because Machu Picchu is about a thousand feet lower, so when I finally arrive, I should not have to worry about the adjustment at all.

Ollantaytambo is a great town to visit though. There is an old part of the city where old Inca walls have been preserved and new building have been built on top of them. They did not try to continue the aesthetic, but built with a significant difference, so people could notice the old walls, and how far the town spread.

They also have a Spanish feeling plaza that is covered with various vendors, and good Peruvian restaurants. Most of them serve simple meals, but there are a couple that stand out; Amanta and Chuncho had more traditional Peruvian fare, and the later one even brewed its own distilled liquor that they used in all of their cocktails.

The Spanish came in the way that they always did, thinking that they would easily overpower them. What they did not count on was the Inca flooding the valley causing them to retreat. During this retreat, the Inca sent down their most powerful warriors to attack the Spanish and in the process slaughtered many of them. It was a short lived victory though because the Spanish returned with four times the original forces and eventually took over the sight. Still, it was one of the few times that the Spanish suffered a defeat at the hands of the Inca.

The fortress is well-preserved today, and though it might take a couple of stops along the way up to catch your breath, it is easily accessible for most people. It also offers amazing views of the town, and the surrounding valley. It might not have the location view that Machu Picchu does, but it is a great little taster before continuing on to that historic sight.

The other side of the valley has another set of ruins that at the time of writing this entry are free to enter. They do not attract the big crowds that the fortress does, but the ruins are just as impressive. The hike up requires a little more patience because it requires some more difficult terrain, but the sign will guide people as to which way they should go to avoid creating road blocks.

I would suggest going early in the morning because the crowds are almost non-existent at that time, and it makes you feel as if you have the ruins to yourself. It is a little difficult to find the entrance because it is not a big ticket booth like the fortress has, but it is on block south of the plaza. Take the first left and walk down the cobblestone path for a bit. You know you are in the right place because there will be an Inca made aqueduct on your right hand side. If you look to the right you will see the entrance with stairs leading up the mountain on the other side.

I have thoroughly enjoyed my time in this small town before going on to the main event, and I never thought that an entrance town could be just as exciting as the whole reason I came out to this part of the world in the first place. It has gotten me excited about Machu Picchu by showing me what I should expect when I get out there. I hope this inspires you to take the voyage, and until next time, keep looking for those hidden gems that you know are out there.

Happy New Year from Machu Picchu

It is one of the most recognizable sights in the world. People have put it on their bucket list as one of the things that they want to see in their lifetimes. It is the center of one of the most mysterious and intriguing cultures of the world. Lots have already been written about it, from its discoveries, to its conflict with the Spanish conquistadors, to the way people make a pilgrimage out of it in the modern day. There has already been a lot written about Machu Picchu, so I will not try to cover the same material and will give you my wandering thoughts about the place because I cannot visit a place like this without writing about it.

To start off, I have been holding off on visiting this place because I knew any visitor I had in Peru would want to make a stop there, so there was no reason to go out of my way to visit if I knew that I was going to go there anyway. I had made this mistake with Petra in Jordan and by the time I left after four years, I was starting to become an expert with that sight. Even with this wait, I still made my first visit to Machu Picchu within six months of moving to Peru. It just shows you how willing people were to jump on that chance to visit this sight that I was taking the trek during my first big break in the region.

I also went during a slower season. There are many paths that are opened to guests to travel through the sight so they are not just running any direction that they want and threatening to damage the beauty of this location. It was during the rainy season or Peru’s summer. Not all of the paths were open at this time because some of the more adventurous ones are too dangerous tonight travel on. Also, most people avoid this time because Machu Picchu can be covered in clouds, making it hard to see, especially in the morning. We were exceptionally lucky in this regard. We had scheduled a hike through the complex during the late afternoon, and another hike around the outside of the complex during the morning. On both occasions, we avoided the weather, and the clouds, but I am told that this is not the norm during this time of the year. I will have to come back during the high tourist season to see what the difference actually is.

There are two paths connected with the sight, one that I knew about, the other I didn’t, that I really want to do. The first is the Inka Trail. It is a four day trek that takes you over the ridge that gives you the iconic picture of Machu Picchu that everybody has seen. The other is a steep hike up the mountain that sits in the background of the iconic photo that takes people to a more obscure collection of buildings where the high shaman used to live. It is supposed to be a tough hike, but the views from that place have to be amazing.

There are also guides that sit outside of the sight and are willing to take you in and give you more context of what you are seeing. If you are doing route 3, I would highly recommend hiring one of them. They are very knowledgeable and ours was a great photographer as well, getting us pictures with everybody in it. Our guide was able to point out a lot of the subtleties of the buildings while giving us a perspective of the Inka culture that we would have missed without them. It was also nice having that knowledge with us as we did route 2 without a guide because we could now look at things with a different perspective and still know what we were looking at. At the time this post is being written, the going rate was 70 soles for person which translates to about 15 dollars. Totally worth it, though I am sure that if I go back enough, I will be able to supply the information without the guide.

Also, the llamas rule the sight. We were told that there were sixteen of them on the ground with the newest one just having been born. They make for some great pictures and they are used to the tourists who go up to them to get that snapshot. They serve another purpose because they graze on the grass that grows on the terraces, keeping it relatively short. I know they are not the most majestic of animals, but in this environment, they look regal.

It was a great first trip to this sight, and I know I will come back again to try a different experience there. I can’t wait for those moments just as could not wait for this one, but I will because I know I will eventually have more visitors and I will get to see the sight through their eyes the next time around.

Until next time, look forward to those adventures you have always wanted to take and get excited when you eventually get to take them.

Above the Canopy

There is an all-inclusive resort close called Inkaterra to Porto Maldonado, Peru in the Amazon rain forest where they have many different activities to keep the guests busy. Each day is supplied with various hikes, boat rides or excursions that will take you to various parts of the rain forest to explore. My favorite excursion so far has been the canopy hike. It allows for a view of the forest that is hard to come by. You are allowed to raise yourself above the lower levels and get to look at it the same way that the monkeys and birds that wander through the forest get to see it.

It does take a little bit of a voyage to get to the towers that will take you above the canopy of the forest. The resort will load everybody on a boat and take them down the river to a short trail that will take you to the first tower. They will take you out there during the planned time whether it is sunny, rainy, or just murky out, so go out there making sure you are wearing the right clothes you will need to stay dry. I took the boat rise during a torrential downpour and was stuck in the front of the boat. Though I was wearing my best protective gear, I was still soaked to the bone by the time I arrived.

Still, being wet did not take away from the experience. I climbed up a tower built out of rust wood, a strong wood from the forest that looks like it is rotting away, but is actually super strong. The tower took us up forty meters to look down at the first canopy of the forest with six suspension bridges in-between the two towers that were connected to the bigger trees in the forest. The goal was to walk over the six bridges to get to the other side while looking down on the forest and hopefully catching sight of some of the birds and animals that live in this altitude of the trees.

Because of the rain, we were not able to find any animals, but it had cleared off enough for us to enjoy the view. They would only let one person walk across the bridge at a time which was probably a good thing because even with one person, it was rather bouncy. It also caused us to take a good amount of time for the whole group to get from one side to the other, but once things got started on the bridges, it did not feel like the wait took too long between the bridges.

I would not claim that those who are afraid of heights would have a problem with this excursion, but I did go with a couple of people that are not big fans of heights, and they never felt as if their lives were in danger. The bridges are a little bouncy, but you feel secure as you cross over them, and there are places to hold on to allowing you to feel as if nothing really bad could happen as you cross over. When all was said and done, it was a lot of fun, and if the place allowed for it to happen, I would easily go out there to experience it again. Maybe the next time I would be dry and get to be able to see the animals come out of their hiding. Until then, I will just have to enjoy the next experience that life has planned for me.

Making Chocolate

My favorite part of traveling around the world is falling into those unexpected experiences that treat me to a new way of looking at something that we take as commonplace. It is not uncommon for me to stand in a checkout line at the grocery store when I get a quick hankering for chocolate, so I scan the offering right in front of me, and quickly grab one of my favorites to throw on the pile. I don’t think about the process it took to get to this place in the grocery store; I just think about how I can get into my stomach. But I recently got to experience the process that it took to make chocolate in the first place, and not from the perspective of a huge corporation making the treat, but from the way it was prepared for centuries beforehand.

In a hut in the middle of the Amazon rain forest, I stood before a bowl of cocoa beans that had been roasted in the sun. These beans come from a podlike fruit that can be found on trees in this part of the world. The pod is a distinct yellow when it is ready to harvest, and when the pod is opened up, the beans are white in a milky substance. It is the roasting process that turns them into the darker color that we know chocolate to eventually be.

The first process is taking off the husk from each of the beans. It is easier than I thought it would be, and there was only a couple of times when the bean turned into a powdery substance that would be used in making cocoa. It also left the tips of my fingers with a fine powdery substance that when licked made me feel like I was eating the cereal Cocoa Puffs.

When all of the beans’ shells had been removed, we moved what was left over to a large flat stone, and used a larger rounded stone to grind the beans into a nice powder. It was a good start for what needed to happen, but the stone did not get the cocoa into a fine enough powder, so this is when we moved over to the next step.

We moved all the powder to a more powerful grinder. This one was harder to use as some the bigger chunks left over from the stone would get stuck in the grinder. Still, with a little bit of leverage, we were able to run all the powder through and turn it into a very fine substance. Still was not ready for consumption.

This is when you start adding the sugar and condensed milk to prepare it to the way you like it. I always wondered how certain chocolates had a spiciness or unique flavor and I am sure that this is the same time that other ingredients were added to achieve that desired effect. With the extra ingredients added, it went back to the fine grinder to get it back to that consistency needed for the final step.

This is when the aluminum foil was brought out, and the ground cocoa was spread out into it, and then nicely folded over to be brought to the refrigerator. After about fifteen minutes in the chilled environment, it becomes the type of chocolate that you might in a grocery store, granted not the convenient one that you could find in a checkout aisle, but the more refined kind that can be found in the baking aisle of the store. The whole process helped me appreciate this worldwide delight even more, and I will never look at chocolate the same way again.

Until next time, look for those experiences that will help you see in the world in a new way.

Can You Spot the Animals?

The Amazon is teaming with life. In order to know that this is true, all you have to do is stand still and listen to the noises of the forest. You will hear various birds calling, frogs barking, and monkeys howling, but as soon as you try to look for them, they become elusive. Still, with a good eye, you can find them hidden amongst the fauna of the forest.

We went out into the wild on many occasions, and if it was not for our guide, I do not believe that we would have found all of the animals that we found. I was amazed at the way he was able to find not only the monkeys in the trees, but as the tiniest of bugs hiding on the branches, or the caiman lurking in the roots of a tree in the river. It gave me a new appreciation of what it meant to live in this part of the world. Here are some pictures I took of some of the animals that we found in our travels. See if you can find the animals in the pictures.

There is an otter staring at the camera while enjoying a breakfast of piranha.

What our guide often referred to as the stinky bird with a spiky haircut, but I don’t think that is its technical name.

A small bird that is related to the owl.

A caiman, a smaller relative of the alligator, looking at us from the water as we passed by in a long canoe.

A row of bats getting their beauty sleep during the day so they could hunt at night.

A white heron trying not to look to conspicuous on a branch down a tributary.

A capuchin monkey looking down at us wondering why we are not taking the palm trees that make the rain forest highway.

A red howler monkey catching up with the rest of its crew.

Some of the animals were more obvious to see, but with help, I was able to find many more. Despite this, I am also sure that there were many more that were out that observing us that I never got to see. It just made going back out into the forest an adventure every time because I never knew what it was I was going to find.

Until next time, keep searching for those hidden gems that you know are out there waiting to be found.

A Relaxing Long Weekend

Vacation is not always vacation. Sometimes it feels as if it is a little bit of a chore that you go off in order to gain more experiences in this thing called life. Because of this, you can run off to exotic locations around the world to try to see what there is to see there, and enjoy all the things that the place has to offer only to find out that when you return from it, you are more tired than when you left for vacation. It is not a bad thing because those memories are what we hold on to while we work our way through employment. But every once in a while, it is nice to go off to some place with no other plan than to sit by a pool, have a couple of drinks, and let those tight muscles unwind as you let go of the worries of the world you left behind.

Of course, Thanksgiving weekend is the perfect time to do exactly just this, especially if you live far enough away from the United States where you cannot enjoy the American traditions. I am lucky enough to work for an American company in Peru, so I still got the holiday off, and it makes it even better when the rest of the country does not. This allowed me to run off to a relaxing weekend without the holiday crowds that might be attracted there by those who also have the time off. I took off down south from Lima to a resort that was situated on the grounds of a winery, and enjoyed myself by sitting back and finding out what this out-of-the-way place had to offer.

This was to be a different kind of vacation, one where I did not go hunting for the great touristy thing to do; instead, I just looked at what the place around me had to offer and enjoyed that. There was no reason for me to leave the resort because there were a lot of fun things to do, and it was always accompanied by a glass of wine straight from the vineyard.

What fun and games that the place did not have available were accompanied by a couple boardgames that I brought with me, as well as the other games that the people I went out there with as well. If I am being honest, the weekend turned into me playing board games, and reading books by the pool. I know that does not sound very exciting, but as a teacher approaching the end of the semester, this was the type of vacation that I needed.

And if I ever felt like I was going to be bored, I could always take a stroll out in the fields. The weather was perfect for this, and at dusk, it was fun to wander through the vines, looking at the grapes, and trying to find what creatures were out there waiting for their chance to dine. I did find many birds flying about, but it was better at dusk because this was when the surprises would start to wander around.

We went out into the fields for the main purpose of finding owls that we could take pictures of. We had heard that they were out there, and it did not take us long to find a few of them. Getting a good picture of them was a little more difficult because when I got to close to them, they would screech at me and fly away. Still, I was not to be deterred, and I was able to finally get a picture that I am happy to share with you now.

There were a lot of other surprises that could be found on the grounds of the resort. Not just the views, but the old relics that they collected to add a little character to the place. There were the women placed on the front of ships to guide the sailors through their long ocean voyages, old carts that were used to carry the wine into town, and old clay pots that used to be buried under the ground used to let the wine ferment.

I was also fortunate enough to be able to make this trip with a great group of friends. It made this holiday weekend away from the United States feel like I had found a family that I could celebrate with. There was plenty of downtime, but there was also a person there ready to pick me up when I felt like having something to do. It made this little getaway resort feel like a bigger vacation than it actually was, and will be part of the reason that it will stick with me for years to come.

It is the reason that many people reserve the place for large gatherings. They create a destination event where a lot of friends can gather together to enjoy their time together. The place will organize the food, the wine, and the entertainment with you, and then after the event, all you have to do is stumble your way to your room and crash for the evening. There are also enough places on the ground where various parties can go on at the same time without having to disturb another one some place else.

It was a great way to spend the long weekend, and I look forward to finding other little places like this one in Peru where I can get away from the big city and recharge again. It will make my time out here even more enjoyable.

Intipalka Winery Tour

I had a long weekend, so I took a four-hour drive down the coast from Lima through the small town of Ica, and arrived at the grounds of Intipalka Winery where they have places to stay among their vineyards. They provide you with everything you need to enjoy yourself during your stay, but one of the things that they schedule you for is a tour of the winery where they produce not only fine reds, and whites, but also the drink of Peru, pisco. It is not required for you to go on this tour, but considering that it comes with a wine-tasting, a sunset viewing, and a stroll through the vines, it is worth considering.

Like most things in Peru, the tour was delivered in Spanish, and since I am still in the process of picking up the language, there were a lot of the details that went over my head during the tour. I did get that the pisco is the main drink that they produce on the grounds, and there are three different types of pisco. I also learned that pisco is a strong drink sitting at about 42 percent alcohol, though the sweet taste does not make it seem like you are drinking something that strong.

I also learned that the grounds of the vineyards extended much further than it looks like from inside the compound. All of the vines are regularly maintained and the water is supplied from the runoff from the Andes Mountains that loom over the grounds. The grapes do produce nice red and white wines which you can buy at cost in the restaurants, but I would stay away from the rose that they make. It was really sweet, even more so than the pisco, but the other wines are great, and would rival anything that you could find over the border in Chili. And of course, if you do not wish to have a bottle of wine to share, there are always pisco sours or chilcanos.

They do load up cars at the end of the tour and take everybody up to a lookout that looks over the expanse of land they use to create their wine, piscos, and brute champagne. It is here that they allow you to try the sparkling wine while watching the sun set over the fields. The day I went was a little hazy, but I know that this is not always the case. We had much better sunsets the first night we stayed here, and I am looking forward to seeing what the other nights have to offer. Still, it was a pretty location, and the wine added nicely to the atmosphere.

Out of the many things that the place has to offer, it is the one must do thing that you should do. It really highlights the beauty of the region and gives you the insight of what it means to run a winery. Even if your Spanish is not great, you can still get a lot out of the experience.

A Thanksgiving Weekend Getaway

I have been really grateful about the move we have made to Peru. I really have loved living in Lima, and the drastic change in cultural experiences. I have loved the food that I have been able to enjoy since I have moved here. I have loved the dog-friendly environment that has allowed my dog to transition into this new lifestyle. I have not loved the long schedules in-between breaks that have pushed me and my students to really struggle towards the end of the long stretches. I have not loved the few opportunities to go out and see more of the country. So when I have an opportunity to get out there and see more of it, I have taken that chance.

It has only been my second trip out of Lima out of the five months I have lived here, and this time, it was only for the long Thanksgiving holiday weekend. No, Peru does not celebrate this very American holiday, but when you work at an American school, they observe this holiday. The nice thing about this is that many of the places out there do not have that many guests staying at it because it is right before the big tourist season, and most of the people who live in the country have to work on Thursday and Friday. This means that we get to have a relatively quiet getaway in what would be an otherwise crowded location of Peru.

We hired a driver to take us south of Lima to the city of Ica where the desert of the country meets the more fertile land of the Andes mountains. It is the perfect climate to grow grapes, so it is here where the wine country of Peru resides, and there is a winery where you can rent a room on their grounds. They do have a big hotel with many things to do to keep me occupied during this long weekend, but the main thing I am going to do is relax and enjoy the holiday.

It will not be like a traditional Thanksgiving that I would find back in the States, but I think it will do. As of right now, there are not many plans of leaving the grounds until I have to head back to Lima on Sunday, but I will still explore all the little nooks and crannies of this location to get you a lowdown on what this place as to offer while I am here. Please join me in the next couple of days while I explain what this little paradise on the foot of the Andes has to offer.

The Hot Springs

The water of the river rushes by,
And I sip off a frosty pisco sour,
Hearing the day telling me to comply
By not paying attention to the hour.
It is easy to do because I sit
In the warming comfort of the hot spring,
Taking away the way my muscles knit
Themselves into a tight stressful feeling.
But here I am safe within this valley,
Isolated from the problems outside,
A place where I am able to just be
And where I wish I could always reside.
I will place that idea behind me,
And just enjoy the moment to be free.