Mirador Condor – Torres del Paine, Chile – Without the W or the O Part 1

It is a badge among many hikers to travel all the way down to the southern tip of South America and do the five or six day hikes that are a part of the W loop or O loop in Torres del Paine. Not to take away from the people that are able to accomplish these great feats, but there are many other ways, and many other hikes to take that are just as spectacular in this National Park of Chile. It also does not require you to book the hikes six months in advance to make sure that you have the limited spots that are available on these paths, and if you can find the trailheads, you are welcome to enjoy these hikes on your own time. This short series will explore some of the paths and other things available that I was able to take during my five night stay in the park, and it might help you plan your trip if you were not able to book the W or O loops.

The first one is one of the easiest to find, Mirador Condor. It is a forty-five minute hike out, and forty-five minutes back that takes you to the top of a ridge that will give you some of the more iconic views from the park. The path is groomed well, and for the most part is pretty easy to travel on. It is a little steep on the way up, and there are parts with loose soil that makes footing a little slippery, but if you take it slow on the way up, it is still not too difficult. I would recommend bringing hiking poles as well and this will help give you the balance that you need to reach the top.

The views are not the only reason to take this hike. Just as the name implies, this is also the scrounching grounds for condors, and if you are lucky, you can find them hunting for food. These birds are enormous, and watching their graceful dance as they float over the peaks was one of the highlights of this trip. They are not always out, but they usually hunt in the morning hours when it is not too windy, so if you plan your trip well, it will increase your chances to see them. I know that the picture I included does not make it look like they are that great, but it is hard to take a picture of one of these birds that does it justice. You just have to go out an visit to see how majestic these birds really are. Also, I am told that nine times out of ten when making the hike up to this peak, people will not see condors, so if you do see them, consider yourself extremely lucky.

Another reason that you might want to go earlier in the morning is because of the winds. On the way up, it was not very windy, and I even joked about some of the signs we ran into that warned about the high winds. Right when we summited, the winds came, and apparently heard me joking about them because they came in strong. They were not joking about the wind either. It blows so hard that it feels like it could easily sweep you off of the mountain, and there was a saddleback in between two peaks where the path takes you, and it is here where the wind was at its worst. We ended up walking directly into the wind on the way down in this part, and that might have been the most strenuous part of the whole hike.

The trail head is pretty easy to find. We left from Campground Pehoe. If you are leaving from the parking lot with the restaurant in it, it is to your left. We walked down that way, and we reached where the parking lot for the trailhead was in a couple of minutes. It was really easy to find, and there is even signs that point to where it starts. This is not the only way to the peak. There is another path on the other side of the mountain that you can find by traveling another kilometer and you will be able to find the parking lot right before the bridge that takes you to the hotel on the island in the middle of the lake. We did not take this path, but we talked to some people on top of the peak, and it sounds like it was just as difficult as the one that we took. Either way, you should be able to find your way up to this amazing viewpoint in the middle of Torres del Paine.

High in the Andes: My First Outing in Peru

I moved to Lima three months ago, and I have been able to enjoy it quite a bit, but it was time for me to get away from the gloomy skies of the city and see what the mountains just outside of town had to offer. It was Spring Break, so I packed my bags and headed to the second biggest city in Peru, Arequipa. It was not only quite the change in landscape, but also a change in attitude as well. Both places are big tourist destinations, but for different reasons, and it was fun being a tourist in the Andes Mountains rather than living a day to day existence off the coast of the Pacific Ocean. It made me excited for all I was going to see as I learned to live and explore this part of the world.

First of all, Peru is the story of the clash of two long-standing cultures, the Spanish colonialists that sailed over the sea in search of new lands and riches, and the Inca culture at the height of its power as it spread its influence over much of the western part of South America, specifically in the mountainous regions of the Andes. Despite the fact that these conflicts happened centuries ago, the influences of both cultures are present all over this part of Peru.

The ruins of the old civilizations can be found in the mountains still well preserved though nobody has lived in them for a long time. It takes a bit of a hike to get to them, but once there they are worth the visit. You can see the old roads that used to take people from one place to another combined by the stone construction of their homes, walls, and aqueducts. Some of the sights even predate the Inca culture, such as this abandoned town near Yanque which was once the Oyu Oyu village before conquistadors from Toledo came and removed the people to move them over to the now present town of Yanque.

If the small towns and ruins of the Andes are not enough, there are always the bigs city lights of Arequipa that is just over the ridge of the Andes Mountains. Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru, and has about 1 million citizens living there. Though it is a ways off the Pacific coast, it was one of the first place that the Spanish settled when they first arrive, and there influence is all over the older part of the city. You can see it in the plaza in the middle of the city to the large cathedral that looms over that square. The cobblestone streets do allow traffic to drive through them, but at the same time it feels completely walkable as you look at various alpaca shops, restaurants, and souvenir places selling cheese ice-cream. It is not just the language of Peru that was influenced by the Spanish, but there whole towns as well.

Still, it is a blending of both the original culture and the Spanish colonialism that gives Peru its charm. The dresses and dances might remind you of flamenco dancing in Seville, but upon closer inspection the dresses have intricate designs that take from the fauna and boldness of the mountain setting that inspired them. The dance comes with a determination and confidence that could only be found among a group of people who conquered these vast wilderness, and do not necessarily have the grace associated with the dances from Spain. It is its own unique thing, and it is wonderful to watch wherever it might spring up.

The blending of cultures to make a new and unique thing is the basis of much of Peruvian culture, especially their food. I am surprised about the amount of people that know so little about Peruvian food, and in many places in the world, it is almost impossible to find at all. Despite its absence on the world stage, it is one of the best cuisines I have ever experienced. From ceviche to lomo saltado, all of the dish are a culinary delight, and if you are in the mood to try something from one of your favorites, they will put their own spin on it to create something even better than the original. I went to a Thai-Peruvian fusion restaurant in Arequipa called Kao that was a traditional Peru dish, tacu-tacu, with Thai flavors that blended so well together I will never forget the dish.

Peru is the land of numerous surprises and I have only started to explore it. I have been in the big city on the coast and a small section of its mountains. I still have to explore its jungles and river area, and I am sure there are other surprises I am not even aware of yet. Still, I got to roam the majestic mountains of Peru and have been higher above sea level than I have ever been in my life. I have enjoyed the hot springs brought on by the rising steam of active volcanoes. I have gotten to see the graceful flight of the condor, the second largest bird in the world.

I have enjoyed my small exploration of this country so far, and I cannot wait to see what else it, and the rest of this region of the world has to offer. I hope you join me in my journey, and hopefully, I can inspire you enough to make it down here yourself. You will be fascinated with what it has to offer.

Until next time, keep exploring the world and see how we all come together to create something new.

Colca Lodge – Yanque, Peru

When you live in a valley in the mountains of the Andes, there are going to be times when you come across some volcanic activity. When you come across volcanic activity, there are going to be springs that are naturally warmed by the volcanic activity. When you have these hot springs, hotels are going to pop up that will take advantage of this fact to make hot water pools that allow you to soak in them while enjoying the natural surroundings of the environment. This was the place that I ended up at during my recent travels through Peru, and it was not only an immaculate setting, but a great experience as well.

The Colca Lodge sits a twenty-minute drive outside the small town of Yanque in the Colca Canyon region, and its main attraction are the natural hot springs that are found there. But there is so much more to this lodge than just the nice warm pools that are in the area where you can relax after a long day of exploring the high Andes mountains. There is a spa, a nice big pit for late-night campfires, and of course, what every high Andes complex needs, an alpaca farm.

Don’t worry, they have llamas too. Basically, you are given free reign to walk around the grounds and check out these animals as they run, play, and graze. It is also connected to a small museum that talks about the history of these animals in the region as well as the other major draw out to Colca Canyon, the condor. It is a nice way to spend an hour or two, and the animals are completely friendly, even though I never got close enough to one to pet it.

There is really only one place to eat at the Colca Lodge, but they do have enough variety that you will never get bored with the food. The kitchen staff is also well-versed in bringing together many dishes, mainly from Peru, but you can also find some great dishes from Italy, Mexico, and bar fare. They also have a full bar with a great selection of wine, and beer from the region.

Each room has an outdoor entrance that has a small patio that is perfect for sitting out on most of the time. There was a moment when things got a little too hot in the morning, but then the shade took over and it was nice to sit out there and enjoy the scenery. It was the perfect place to sit back to read a book or play a card game, and made the lodge a very comfortable place to stay at.

There are many exciting things to do and see in the area as well. There are some hikes close by that can take you to waterfalls, up ancient terraces where people still farm today, and even the Oyu Oyu ruins. If that is not your cup of tea, a longer drive will take you out to Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world and the sight where many condors can be spotted hunting for carrion. It makes this spot the perfect location for a break from the day to day monotony. I enjoyed a three night stay there and am already thinking about when I could go back and enjoy it again.

Until next time, try to find those special places in your part of the world that allow for relaxation and little bit of culture at the same time.