Sighnaghi, Georgia


Many people who visit Georgia spend most of their time in Tbilisi. Though there is a lot to see in the biggest city in the country, the real heart of Georgia lies in its wine region. It is not very far from Tbilisi, and there are tour companies that will take people on day trips for wine tastings and checking out the many monasteries, it is not the best way to get the most out of the region.


Sighnaghi is one of the towns that the tour companies will go to, but why spend the day on a bus and rush in and out of places, when you could just stay there and enjoy what the area has to offer at a more leisurely pace. First of all, Sighnaghi is a cute little town with a bunch of wineries in it. Some of them are big operations; whereas, a couple of them are just a family that has been making their wine in clay pots for generations. You can easily have a great bottle of wine at some of the local establishments, and the owner will be so proud of their wine that they will give you a tour of their operation.


This happened to me. We had gone to Traveler’s Inn for dinner on our first night there. When we were looking for a glass of wine, we chose from the family wine list thinking that it would give us a half liter. The price indicated that it should not have been for much more. We ended up with a bottle instead, and our waiter was so excited that we went with the family option that he motioned for me to go in the back room so I could see how it was being made.


Another advantage to staying in the town as opposed to doing a day trip is that you can get an earlier start to touring the other wineries in the region. We were able to hire a driver for the day from the home stay that we were staying at. He did not speak English very well, but he knew many of the people at the places we stopped at. It helped to give us a more personal experience at each of the wineries that we visited. It also got us out earlier than the tour groups that were coming from Tbilisi. 


Winery Khareba is one of the more popular wineries in the region because its operation was built into the hillside in 1966 during the Soviet era. It is a long tunnel seven kilometers long, and the place is as much of a draw as the award winning wine is. When we were there, it was only us and another couple from South Africa. Our tour guide was very knowledgable and we got to know him a little bit because he did not have to keep track of a larger group. We were also the only ones in the long tunnel even though it could easily accommodate more people. When we were leaving, two large tour buses showed up from Tbilisi which packed the place, and changed the whole environment. If we were not able to sneak in there earlier than these crowds, it would have been a completely different experience.


It is not possible to escape the crowds that come to this region. We ran into them in Sighnaghi itself, and when we made it out to the monasteries. They were some of the biggest crowds I have seen since coming out to Georgia, but being able to avoid them during some of the sights made staying here worth the experience. Also, while they were getting on a bus to head back to Tbilisi, I was able to stay and enjoy the area while they were gone. It made for a better experience out here, and it is the way that I would recommend to come out here.

A Day Trip to Armenia

I had been in Tbilisi for two day before I took the option to get out of town to voyage to another country. Actually that is not fair. So far, I have really enjoyed Tbilisi and what it has to offer, and I will write another post about that later. We had just booked a tour from Tbilisi with Gamarjoba Georgia Tours that took us over the border into Armenia so we could enjoy the beautiful mountains that are found there and visit a couple of their oldest monasteries that are built on to the peaks there. It was a great way to spend a day, and it took me to some of the most dramatic sights I have ever seen in my life.

The tour we went on took us to basically two different, famous monasteries in the Lori region mountains just across the border from Georgia. They have a close relationship to each other as they were built around the same time from competing builders. The first one we went to was called the Haghpat Monastery. This one was built second and from a builder that was angry with the head builder at the other monastery. He decided that he could do better, so he quit and went to this spot to built his own complex. The original builder came down from his sight and saw what was being built and was impressed with it, and decided to call it based upon the huge walls that fortified the complex, by calling it ‘huge wall’ which translates into Haghpat in Armenian.

The story does not stop there though. The same builder pointed to the original complex and proudly pointed out that his was older than the other one which translates to Sanahin in Armenian. The names stuck, and ever since then, they have competed for being the monastery that people should go to worship the lord.

The silly rivalry produced to monasteries that are recognized by UNESCO today. Both are amazing sights to go see, and it is also nice to have someone drive you to each place in a nice comfy van where you can sit by and watch the hills roll by. This is the time to go as well. The monasteries are not on the typical tourist path right now, and they are not very crowded when you get there. At the start of the tourist season, we had these places almost to ourselves, sometimes with only the people that came with us on the small tour.

There were other places that we went on the tour that were just as interesting, but it was really the competing monasteries that was the highlight of the tour. It was a long day, and it took a little while to cross over the border, but it wasn’t too difficult, and the tour company, Gamarjoba made sure that we left early enough in the morning to avoid any crowds that might gather at the cross over point. it also included a home cooked lunch with garden fresh vegetables that could easily be one of the best meals I have had in this region.

Overall, Armenia is a hidden gem that will only take a matter of time before the world finds out about it. I am glad that I made it out here before the crowds did, and I hope that you can do the same because it is definitely worth the trip.

Wadi Shab – Tiwi, Oman

The term, wadi, is thrown around a lot in the Middle East, and it does not take long to figure out that it just means canyon. There are thousands of wadis all over the Middle East, and if you find the better ones, you will discover an amazing hike that will take you to some really cool places. One of the better ones, called Wadi Shab, is located outside of the small town of Tiwi in Oman.

It is located right off of the highway, and there are plenty of signs that will point you the right direction. The hike is absolutely beautiful, and there are dramatic views of mountains on either side of the path, but this is not the reason to make it out this way.

A river helped to carve out this valley, and as you hike through the canyon, it is always on either side of you. Sometimes it is nothing more than a stream; whereas at other points along the way, you will find that you can jump off cliff faces into deep pools, or just go out wading into the cool water that is so refreshing on a hot, desert day.

At the very end of the canyon, you do have to take off your hiking boots, and dip in the water if you wish to make it the whole way. There is a cave at the end that boasts about an underground waterfall, and this is the final destination of many of the people who make it out this way. It is an amazing sight, but it is also fun to swim in the water, and let the tiny fish pick off the dead skin from your legs. If you do make it out this far, I would recommend that you bring with you some water shoes because there are a lot of rocks that you will walk on, and bring a snack as well because it takes a good hour to make it out to this pond. You will also probably spend an hour or two at the pond itself, so the whole day will take about four hours total.

I also recommend getting there early in the day. It is a couple hours drive from Muscat, but less than an hour from Sur, and it is a great day trip if you find yourself in the later town. You also can’t just start hiking on the trail. You have to take a short, and I do mean short, boat ride from the welcoming center to the start of the hike. It does cost one Omani Rial per person, and they do stop running the boat around five or six at night. That means if you do not make it back in time, you could be stuck in the wadi during the night. Some people do come out to camp here, but you would want to plan for that and not be surprised about that choice when you find yourself on the wrong side of the river at the wrong time.

It is a great place out of many to visit while in Oman, and should be added to everybody’s itinerary. It is a great way to spend a day out in the desert, and the sights and adventures had along the way will not be quickly forgotten.

Outside of the City – Taiwan Day 5

One of the nice things about Taiwan is that it is a small island, and it is not always focused on its biggest city, Taipei. In fact, the real heart of this country comes from getting outside of the city and connecting to the natural surroundings that can be found on the island. There are many beautiful hikes that are waiting to be explored, and there is a huge coastline with beaches, and other features that are worth your time. The best part of all of these features is that they are not that far away from the city. By bus, it only takes a little over an hour to get to Yehliu where you can explore a geopark there with many crazy rock structures.

The battering of the sea, and the unique geology of this place has created its own natural art gallery. Everywhere I turned I was able to see a new piece that would allow me to come up with my own interpretation of what it is. Some of them are a little more famous than others, such as the Fairy’s Shoe, and the Queen’s Head, but there are enough of them that did not have a sign telling me what other people have called them, so I was able to come up with my own names for those stone structures. These were also the ones that were not crowded with tourists, so it made it not as bad to stand there and look at them for awhile.

And yes, the tourists are here. Like any other natural structure in the world, people will flock to get their pictures with the sights. But once again, I was lucky. I went on a day that was promising to dump rain on the tiny island, and this kept many people indoors afraid of what would happen if they would out in the open when it started to rain. Luckily for me, it never rained. Instead, I was able to enjoy the sights with the cool ocean air blowing in, and I got the added bonus of being able to watch the waves crash into the shore, and watch as the slow chisel of time continued to create the sculptures.

There is also a path at this place that lead to the northern tip of the island and the lighthouse that is perched on the cliff there. For some reason, there were not many people on this path. It could have been that there was long stretch of stone steps that I needed to climb up in order to get to the top of the cliff, or it could have been that there just wasn’t that many people there to begin with, but either way, it was worth the hike. The views that were offered because of the extra effort were amazing, and it was nice to get away from what crowds were actually down by the rocks.

There were also some other structures that were a ways away from the other ones that nobody seemed to care about. They seemed to be ignored, but were some of the best ones out there, and only a couple of brave photographers made their way out to these structures to get the picture of them. The best part was, I do not think that any of them had been named yet. I could be wrong, but this one will always be called New Moon Rising in my mind. It is not important what the real name is because that is what it is now.

All in all, this little day trip from Taipei is worth the hike out, and if you are patient enough, and go on the right day that is a little overcast and threatens rain, you will be able to get a bunch of pictures that make it look like you had the whole beach to yourself. It helps to get you away from the crowds of the city for a little while, and find something new and interesting that is not one nature’s artistic eye can create.