When the Spanish started to establish their foothold in the Americas, one of the first places that they made their presence known was in modern day Cartagena, Colombia. One of the ways they made sure that people coming to this port city knew of their power was the fact that they built a fortress on a hill overlooking the bay and then they stocked it with cannon to repel any enemy force foolish enough to try to overtake the fledging city. Despite its early formidable presence, the fortress changed hands many times and eventually was abandoned as modern warfare made its structure obsolete. It still stands looking over the city, and is now one of the premiere tourist sites there.
The fortress itself is a big block of concrete and stone that sits on top of a hill on the edge of Cartagena. It was built in stages and there are many stories that come from the many centuries that it has stood looking over Cartagena. What looks like a formidable fortress actually has some hidden secrets to it as well.
In many places, there are open gates that allow you to move deeper into the fortress. What surprised me about the place was the winding passages and hidden rooms that can be explored underneath the towering mass of brick and concrete that sits on top of it. These paths show that there was a lot more to this place than appears on the outside, and they could be used to house soldiers, detain prisoners, and hold slaves. It not only adds depth to the place, but also opens up stories, and history that makes this one of the premiere places to visit in the city.
If you are planning on visiting this sight, it is important to know that it is very hot. We visited on a day of clear blue skies, and heavy humidity, and we were constantly being zapped of our energy, and had to consume mass amounts of water to feel like we were not going to collapse as we toured the place. Even the underground passages get really hot, and those are pretty much the only place where you can find shade at this sight during the day. We went there early in the morning to try and avoid the heat, and it was still too hot for us when we arrived.
There are many people selling water and hats outside of the sight, and you will want to make sure that you bring some water with you inside. There is only one store on the top of the fortress and it only sells souvenirs. You will not be able to find any water once you get in. There are a few people that will sell hats and other trinkets on the concrete path up to the top, but they do raise the prices of things as soon as you get inside, so plan accordingly. Also, you will find people who are asking you if you want a guide. This does add some to the experience because the signs you can find on the sight are few, but they are written in both English and Spanish. They will tell you enough of the story of the place, but a guide can really make it come to life.
The Castillo San Filipe de Barajas is easily the must do location of Cartagena, and it does help to bring the city to life. It is a great place to visit though you will only need to be there for an hour or two to get the whole experience. It is also close enough to the old part of town so you can make a day of exploring the fortress and the city itself. It will cement Cartagena in your minds as one of your favorite cities as it did for me.
