When hiking the W loop or the O loop in Torres del Paine in Chilean part of Patagonia, one of the benefits of it is having a place to stay each night while out there. Anybody who has looked into staying out in this national park has discovered that the price of lodging is through the roof. Some people find it so expensive that they decide to do day trips from Puerto Natalis instead, but doing that means that you are missing half of the fun that can be found in this park. I have enjoyed staying in the park, but I will admit that it was expensive to do so, but I did not go for the hotel option. Instead, we stayed at the Campground Pehoe. It is situated in between to of the bigger hotels in the park, and it is considerably more affordable than the hotels.
Now keep in mind that affordablity is a relative term. Campground Pehoe is easily the most expensive campground that I have ever stayed at, and the benefits to staying at this place do not necessarily match with some less expensive campgrounds I have stayed at around the world. We stayed in one of the canvas domes that are on the edge of the campground. They do offer some amazing views of the mountains over the lake, and we did not have to set up camp, but we were still paying over $130 a night in U.S. currency. This did not come with any great ammenities such as electricity or heat. It was a basic room with a couple pieces of furniture, a bed, and a hardwood floor. It stayed cool during the day, but I could see if the sun came out that the tent would get extremely hot. Fortunately, we were in Patagonia where the weather rarely gets that hot, so it always stayed at a comfortable temperature.
There is a shared restroom not too far away which is great during the daylight hours, but makes for a cool, slow trek at night, especially if the moon is not creating enough light. On the other hand, at night when it is clear, you can see a vast network of stars because you are far enough away from any light pollution to destroy this spectacle for you. There is also a restaurant close by that also acts as a cafateria. It does not have a lot of amenities that you can use, but it does supply hot water in the morning for coffee, and a place to sit during down time or while rain comes blowing in. In other words, even the best of spots in this place offer to simplest of features for you to enjoy your time there.
They do have camp shelters as well. There are plenty of these around, and they still cost more than you would find at a typical campsight in other parts of the world. They do offer you a shelter though for you to set up your tent and to protect you from the wind and rain that come intermittently in this campground. The problem comes with the fact that you need to bring all of your camping gear with you. If you are able to do that this is a bargain, but if not, you can still rent all of the equipment from the campsight, but when you add up all of the costs, it ends up costing almost the same as renting a dome, and then you have to spend a lot of time setting it all up.
They do have a restaurant there where they cook everything over a grill heated up by throwing big logs on to a fire. The selection is not amazing, but after a long day of hiking and exploring the park, the choice between a huge steak or a hunk of grilled salmon is the only thing you really need to think about. The food portions are huge, and they are not fancy, but they are prepared well. I was never disappointed in the food, and when I wanted a snack, they had a selection of quick grocery store bites that could satisfy that hunger during the day. They also had hot water in the morning and throughout the day, so if you were looking for a cup of coffee in the morning, or a cup of instant soup in the afternoon, it was really easy to make. They do turn off the water for dinner which we found out the hard way, but if you plan ahead, it is not a problem.
Overall, it is a great place to stay despite the price. It keeps you warm and dry during the crazy changes in the weather that can be found at Torres del Paine, and when it is gorgeous outside, the campgrounds might have some of the best views in the park. It is the perfect place for those who are looking to spend time in the park but have more of a budget. It isn’t perfect, and if you go in thinking that it is a couple of nights camping, you will be happy with what you get out of it.
John Collings 