There a some songs out there that are ear worms. Once you hear the song, the melody digs a hole through your eardrum to burrow itself some place deep in your subconscious. They are the songs that you find yourself singing all day long even though you keep on telling yourself that you need to quit singing it. Some of those songs don’t even need to be heard in order for them to emerge again. All it takes is the mention of something that reminds you of the song, and all of a sudden allusions to the song pop up all over the place. If you do not believe, start telling your friends that you are planning to visit Istanbul soon, and see what they say. Will they start telling you that even old New York was once New Amsterdam? Will they ask if you are sure that you are going to Istanbul, and not Constantinople? Will they ask you if you have a date waiting in Constantinople? Will you respond that it is nobody’s business but the Turks?
If you want to hear that ear-worm play in your head even more, actually take that trip to Istanbul, and the whole time you are there, you will be singing along. Or at least that was what I was afraid I would be doing, but let’s be honest, how often do you mention the name of the town that you find yourself in. Despite this fact, my mind kept wandering back to this song while I was there, and not just because of its jaunty beat, and memorable lyrics. There is something behind those lyrics that give meaning to this world famous city, and the identities it has carried over its history.
Istanbul is a city centered around duality. It sits on edge of two continents, and it is one of the places in the world where you can travel easily between Europe and Asia. The Bosphorus Strait splits the city right down the center, and there are many places where you can peer across it to see the other continent. It also sits in the middle of the trade routes for both the continents, and the varying ways of looking at the world. There are many times when you wonder if the city has more of an Asian feel to it or if it is in fact part of the European ethos. The strange thing that you will realize when being out here is that it is actually both, and they can live together in harmony rather easily.
The people of Istanbul will claim that their spiritual nature is definitively in tune with the Middle East and its values, but this is not necessarily accurate either. Though there are many mosques and the call to prayer can be heard at the usual times of the day, there are not the restrictions on alcohol and other vices that are prevalent in other countries in the region. If you look hard enough beyond the Roman ruins that can be seen all over the place, you will find the Catholic, and Greek Orthodox churches that you would find in a typical European city. Even the city’s most historic monument, the Hagia Sofia, demonstrates this duality within the culture. It was at one time the greatest cathedral on earth, but was turned into a mosque, then a museum, and back to a mosque. Though it supports the current Muslim culture, it is hard not to walk through it, and not see the remnants of the original plan still all over the place.
This duality creeps its way into all aspects of the culture, giving the city of Istanbul its own unique flavor. It feeds into its food, its landscape, and its people. It gives context to the novelty song from the 1950s, so it is no longer an ear worm that will stick in your head from the moment your hear it, but instead will guide you through this amazing town supplying it with meaning.
Until next time, I hope to see you in Istanbul, not Constantinople.
John Collings 