Fighting against the sun to work the field Is how I spent each of my summer days, To be rewarded with a harvest yield, Filled with the nectar the gods use to pay. I will collect the fruit off of the vine To have them bake under the autumn heat. In a fortnight, we can squeeze out the rind By stomping them with the soles of our feet. We’ll put the juice into an oak barrel Which will be hidden in a cool, dry place For four years. We will protect it from peril, So we can ensure its elegant grace. Do not seek out another finer wine Than the one with Commandaria shine.
Cyprus is one of the most beautiful countries I have visited in the European Union, but it is often ignored by travelers. I can sort of understand why, especially when it comes to Americans. It takes a bit of an effort to make it all the way over to Europe, and there are bigger name countries that they would like to visit before making it to this tiny island which in all actuality isn’t even a part of the continent of Europe. Still, there are plenty of reasons to consider this tiny island country to come and visit. It is home to amazing beaches, tall peaks that even offers skiing during three months of the year, ancient Greek ruins that have held up exceptionally well over the centuries, and most importantly, one of the oldest traditions for wine anywhere in the world.
Cyprus is a must for any wine enthusiast out there. There is only one place in the world that has spent more time creating wine and that is the country of Georgia. There are many varieties that can only be found on the island, but the most famous one is a dessert wine called Commandaria. It is considered the wine mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey that was made from dried grapes and was considered the best wine in the world. Though the recipe has not changed much over the centuries, there are still many variations of this nectar that it is worth traveling around the mountains of Cyprus to the various wineries to try what they have to offer on this selection of wine.
This has been the second time that I have voyaged to these various wineries. The first time I went on a tour which is a great way to do it. A person will come and pick you up in the morning and drive you around while you get to sip the various selections you come across. You never have to worry about drinking too much, and you will be introduced to some of the more popular wineries in the region. The second time I went, I traveled around on my own schedule, and visited some of the lesser known wineries. This does not mean that they do not produce great wine. It just means that they are a smaller operation, and you have to get off the beaten path in order to find their tasting rooms. It changed the way that I enjoyed the region and it came with a few unexpected surprises along the way.
My favorite surprise came when visiting the small village of Ayios Mamas. Up a steep hill indicated only by a hand painted sign is the tasting room for the Revecca winery. They only focus on the Commandaria wine that the region is famous for, and their production is only seven to eight barrels a year. The tasting room is a small room in what used to be the house of the grandmother who first inspired this winery. It has been converted, but it still holds the feel of walking into someone’s home with a welcoming smile. It was my last stop of the day, and the one that had me enjoy an adventure that I would not have gotten on a regular wine tour.
The owner of the winery first told us all about the operation as we got to taste two of the vintages they had. When our time there was ending, I asked where the vineyards were, and she explained to me that she was going out there after we were done there because it was harvest time, and if we wanted, we could go visit them with her. I have learned in all of travels that when out and somebody offers something like this, you always say, yes. It did not disappoint. We were able to go to the vineyard, taste some grapes straight from the vines, watch as the grapes slowly dried out in the sun, and watch as they brought in daily haul so get the process started with them. It was a side of wine production that not many people get to witness and it made the personalized tour much more memorable than the one I took last time. Now, I know that this is not something that will be offered to all guests who show up to taste the wine, but it would not have happened if we hadn’t planned our own day.
Both ways are great experiences, but I am grateful to the Revecca winery to give me an experience that I will never forget. Not only did I learn a lot about the process of how one of the oldest wines in the world was made, but I got to taste a couple that were the premiere example of these wines. If you do find yourself in Cyprus, make sure you take time to visit the wineries, but find those hidden gems that won’t bring in the crowds like the bigger establishments. Revecca winery would be the perfect one to start with.
Until next time, keep on getting out there and finding those experiences.
The seeds had been found in an earthen jar, Buried for saving, centuries ago. Even the wearing of time could not mar The vineyards that would eventually grow. From this ancient grape a new production Brought back to the world the sweetest nectar, Recalling an old epic seduction Of Odysseus’s long adventure. Legend even tells of lion hearted Royalty praising the drink’s great value. From Earth, the recipe never parted As stories of it glory only grew. It is the reason for this aria That we will sing for Commandaria.
It is not a trick of the eyes, or a way to play with the light. It is really a glass of wine of a new variety, blue wine. To be fair, it is not new, but it is a rare thing, and there are not many places in the world where you can get a glass of blue wine. The mistake that first brought this wonder into the world was in California, but five other countries repeated the process to produce their own blue wine. One of the wineries that produces this delicacy can be found in the hills of Cyprus outside the small village of Omodos called Linos.
Omodos is a charming village in the heart of the wine country in Cyprus, and is a short hour drive from Paphos by car. It is one of the places that everybody should visit if they make it out to Cyprus, and not only to taste the blue wine. The village is a fun place to stroll through that transports you back in time when streets were narrow and the only way to get from one place to the other was by walking. It is covered now with touristy shops and restaurants, but looking around, you can still see and imagine the way it once was.
It is also nestled right in the heart of wine country. Linos Winery is one of the bigger and older wineries in the region, and the only one to boast about the blue wine, but there numerous wineries around that allow you try the nectar that they have created. They have many traditional variations, and few grapes that can only be found on the island, but the one that the people of Cyprus brag about the most is commandaria. This is a desert wine made from raisins, and it is not a sweet as I would have thought. It falls more into the category of a lighter sherry and goes great after dinner.
Commandaria, like much of the other things that can be found in Cyprus, dates way back in history, and holds the distinction for being the oldest variety of wine in the world. According to people on my tour, they made the wine all the way back in the Hellenistic period using old presses much like the one pictured above. They would squeeze the raisins and grapes between the two large beams while men twisted the press below. They would then collect the juice in these large earthen jugs to ferment, and when the wine was ready, they would serve it to their guests.
The process has changed over the years, and now they collect the wine in oak barrels to age, but this does not take away from the history of the wine making process of this region. Commandaria is the wine that is talked about in Odysseus’s voyages, and Richard the Lion Hearted drank it during the crusades. It adds to the flavor of going out on a wine tasting tour in Cyprus.
It is easily one of the things that you should plan to do when taking a trip to Cyprus. There are many tour companies out there, and the one I took was called Cyprus Wine Tasting. They came to our place earlier in the morning and drove us to three different wineries while talking about the history of the island and the wine. The tour included a traditional lunch, and walk through the village of Omodos. And the most important thing was the driver to safely transport us from place to place. This is a great company to work with if you decide to take a tour and the one I recommend.
In the meantime, I raise my glass of blue wine to you and hope that someday you make it out to this part of the world.
John Collings 